Hi everyone. I recently purchased a used 360/w2 limited circle track engine and have a few general questions.I don't have much info on the engine other that it is a 360 with unported w2 , solid flat tappet, victor intake , stainless roller rockers, roughly 10:1 compression and was being turned to 7200 rpm.I havnt heard it run yet and plan on brining it to the dyno to see if it is healthy or not before I install it in my 70 dart. I think I also plan to run the engine in its current configuration for now as well , with future plans to have heads ported and select a different cam. This is my first w2 engine.

I purchased a new set of TTI headers and noticed TTI is only selling the 1 7/8 headers with a 3.5" collector when they used to offer it in a 3" as well. I will be using the car mainly as a road course track day car. Does anyone think with a full 3" exhaust , the 3.5 collector will hurt torque or is this something I should lose sleep over? I was considering cutting off the 3.5 and use a 3" merge.

I would like to ck the valve lash before I run it ,Can anyone advise on what would be a good starting point ? With my current 360 iron head, HS roller rocker , solid set up I run .016I/.018E.

What would be a good starting point for holley carb size/cfm?

Car is 3300# w/driver , 5 spd ,355 gear.

any suggestions/advice appreciated
thank you
justin

There is 2 different type of W-2 heads.. econo and
race.. econo heads have cast in stands for the rocker
shafts... the race have a flat milled on them for stands
and both heads have long or standard valve lengths
available... the W-2 heads arent that good with out
porting... as for valve lash is it a roller or FT
cam but .018 would work for either with out issue...
as for the 3.5 collector... leave them on.. they help..
when I built my W-2 headers they are 1 7/8 pri with
3.5 collectors then I have elec dumps then 3" exhaust
to the rear bumper with the muffs just before the
bumper

Regards valve lash, assuming the engine is complete and as it was ran, I would check the lash on all valves as it sits and make note of them. You will likely find the vast majority are the same, and maybe one or two are off/ have moved. Set those to where the rest all are. That's highly likely where they belong.
If the engine isn't complete and together......,the above won't do you any good... Lol

ok, thanx. They are the race head but not sure if they are a long valve or not off hand. It is a FT cam. I noticed the amount of thread on the adjusters seems excessive. Is it possible this thing was run like this at sustained high rpm without a problem? As far as unported w2 , im just curious how it does on the dyno as is. I was told it made mid 500hp, we'll see.

pics

pic

adjuster

I shoot for 2 threads showing. Let us know what it makes.

Sheldon

Im waiting for my milodon road race pan, I will let you know what it does.

Thumper , I agree. Im assuming a longer pushrod will correct this.

When I set up the PR length I do a couple of checks
first.. I have a tool I made up so I can put a rocker
on it and see if the roller tip and the center line
of the shaft is in line and where the actual pivot
of the PR should be(down in the cup)... they should
all be in a line... some might want 1 thread showing
and some might want more or less

understood

thank you

I feel sorry for your Hoosiers.

Any idea who built it? I have two W-2 engines. A low 400hp 340 that sounds like the build you have and a Bill Richardson built 380 that puts out 550hp. Just by looking at the way they ran those adjusters I wouldn't run it without checking everything. Too risky to me.

Hey, if you would like a visual reference on a real live running W2 small block, you are welcome to come take a look at my junk. W2/340, MP .557 solid, Victor, TTi step headers.

I'm up in Huntington. PM me if you're interested.