Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
#1659451
08/15/14 08:35 PM
08/15/14 08:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,728 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
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Drag link isn't able to be bolted up on my A body. Put the nut on drivers side on, and the link is about 1.5 inches to high on passengers side from being in place.... Aargg No way to turn the drag link down that much.... And thought about cutting it on each end and welding in a straight piece to replace how the factory bar is made ..... But an outstanding welder who could do it doesn't want the liability( understand his point).... So looks like this trick pan is unusable to me for this 318 mighty mite project Unless somebody here has an idea.... 71 Duster with slant 6 K and Shumacher conversion mounts.... Can't imagine it working with V8 K and different mounts either.... But who knows
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659453
08/15/14 08:51 PM
08/15/14 08:51 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Don.. why not rework the pan.. put in a tube large enough to work and if needed put in wings on the pan for the volume
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1659454
08/15/14 09:13 PM
08/15/14 09:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,728 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
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I guess the former version of this pan, the hole was round, now in this newer version it's rectangular. With a round draglink that isn't straight( kinda shaped like a very shallow U) it seems to me unless the alignment was perfect, it's going to rub, restrict steering, or not be even close to fitting like I am dealing with. Straightening out the bend in the draglink seemed easiest.... But.... Would have to swap out K members, get different mounts to even know if that's a fix. And a guy I know with an E body used this type pan years ago and reworked the bar like I wanted to, to make it work on his Cuda. May just stick the stock pan that was on the motor we just yanked on the new mill As if that isn't all, the built 904 I bought( and is installed behind the new mill in the car now) was shaved for CSR shield clearance, so I can't used my column shift linkage.... So withh retain bench seat with quarter stick on the floor One thing I have learned...... One day drivetrain swaps never work out that way, this one sure isn't either. And I still don't know yet if the stacked 4 hole and open spacers used together will clear the flat hood..... Haven't gotten carb and hoses and such finished yet
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659455
08/15/14 09:24 PM
08/15/14 09:24 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Its never as easy as we think.. just putting on the injection on my 416 I had to get a air cleaner spacer 1.3" taller to clear the injector rails and the throttle linkage... it should clear the hood.. but its close
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659456
08/15/14 09:26 PM
08/15/14 09:26 PM
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 108 Socal
littleVAL
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member
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Socal
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I have an early a body and the /6 and v8 center links are different. The /6 have less clearance/ dip in them. I am unsure on your set up but maybe it just needs a v8 center link. unless they are the same for your year or you already have v8 one. The other option is shimming the steering box and notching the hole for the drag link to rotate the center link if it will give you enough without hurting your steering geometry.
Last edited by littleVAL; 08/15/14 09:32 PM.
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: littleVAL]
#1659457
08/15/14 09:35 PM
08/15/14 09:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,728 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
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Quote:
I have an early a body and the /6 and v8 center links are different. The /6 have less clearance/ dip in them. I am unsure on your set up but maybe it just needs a /6 center link. unless they are the same for your year or you already have /6 one. The other option is shimming the steering box and notching the hole for the drag link to rotate the center link up if it will give you enough.
I had heard the slant draglink is straighter, but called a guy today who is a swap meet guru and he said they are the same. IF he is wrong, that would be a great fix.
Mine is a 71 A body. If yours is for a 63-66 early A body maybe they are different and later A bodies aren't. I don't know. What year is your car ? Anybody out and out positive if the slant 6 draglink is straighter than a V8 draglink?
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659459
08/15/14 09:54 PM
08/15/14 09:54 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845 Tampa
DusterDave
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
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Find another welding shop. I had the same problem, and overcame it with the idea you mentioned. http://hemiduster.com/draglink.htmIt isn't a big deal. I know its a rare thing to do on a car, but in the off-road world, its done all the time. I just welded a tie rod and drag link for my Jeep project.
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: cudadoug]
#1659461
08/15/14 09:59 PM
08/15/14 09:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,728 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
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Quote:
Why in the world would you have that pan on a street car???
We had a round tube version on a Duster and the drag link fit fine. Car was originally a /6 and had a V* K member transplant. Used solid (Moroso?) mounts.
Stock front end height, 27" tall tires = 3.25" ground clearance. We changed to a Kevko as the car is going back on the street.
Sooooo, I have a round tube version for sale...lol...if you really want to run one.
I bought the motor complete. It was an enginemaster's build and the pan was on it. Believe it or not, it actually doesn't hang as low as I thought it would. Anyhow, that why it's on there. And I know those are great pans, but if I can't get it to work in my chassis, it's gonna be an ashtray probably.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: 68shifter]
#1659463
08/15/14 10:27 PM
08/15/14 10:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,728 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
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Quote:
Did you try Johnson Welding on south sprinkle road. Talk to Scott, the younger guy. He's great and will do whatever you need, I wouldn't question his work for an instant.
That is exactly the guy we tried who didn't want to because of liability. My business is just a block up Sprinkle at the corner of Centre. And yes, he is extremely good.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: actionange]
#1659466
08/15/14 11:23 PM
08/15/14 11:23 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267 North, Alabama
D-50
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
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North, Alabama
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Put a Kevko pan on it they hold 6 qts. and they are reasonably priced. That is what I am using and I am happy with it so far. Been 6.20's in the 1/8.
1.33 60 ft,6.21 at 110.59 in the 1/8, pump gas small block,2950lbs,drag radials,mufflers and driven to track ...
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659467
08/15/14 11:39 PM
08/15/14 11:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,169 MI
68shifter
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,169
MI
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Quote:
Quote:
Did you try Johnson Welding on south sprinkle road. Talk to Scott, the younger guy. He's great and will do whatever you need, I wouldn't question his work for an instant.
That is exactly the guy we tried who didn't want to because of liability. My business is just a block up Sprinkle at the corner of Centre. And yes, he is extremely good.
That's odd, but I get his point. I've cut/bent/sleeved all sorts of stuff to mine to fit my pans over the years. That and getting rid of the ends to make disassembly faster.
I know there's a couple guys at Soule's that do fab stuff on the side but don't recall their names. You could check there too.
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659468
08/16/14 12:50 AM
08/16/14 12:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155 Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
top fuel
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top fuel
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Posts: 2,155
Tucson, Arizona
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Mine came w/a straight drag link that is solid. Kinda heavy but doesn't rub anything.
[img] [/img]
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: B3422W5]
#1659469
08/16/14 01:40 AM
08/16/14 01:40 AM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 89 Woodbury, CT.
mcduff
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member
Joined: Jun 2010
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Woodbury, CT.
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No Problem! I had had same problem with my Dart.
Take your current draglink and flip it so the "u" shape is in the other direction. Weld the tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm large taper ends smaller & ream the openings from the other side with a tapered reamer. Fits perfect......cost me $20.00 at the welding shop and the price of the reamer....which I forget how much it costs...not much.
Brett Miller 447 W9
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Re: Milodon S/S drag link through center oil pan issues
[Re: DusterDave]
#1659470
08/16/14 03:04 AM
08/16/14 03:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,992 Anoka County, MN
Leigh
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Anoka County, MN
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Quote:
Find another welding shop. I had the same problem, and overcame it with the idea you mentioned.
http://hemiduster.com/draglink.htm
It isn't a big deal. I know its a rare thing to do on a car, but in the off-road world, its done all the time. I just welded a tie rod and drag link for my Jeep project.
We (Gregsdart) welded a straight piece of solid material, same diameter, then cut the original drop off. Same pan as yours. No problems.
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