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I guess sounds like he had the answer before he asked. like JohnRR said just grab any ole crank and fix it..

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I guess sounds like he had the answer before he asked. like JohnRR said just grab any ole crank and fix it..

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REALLY?? ALREADY HAD THE ANSWER?? How many times have I asked if the issues with the cheap low end cranks go beyond the typical rod/main journals and the only person who spoke up with any answer was JohnRR about the thrust face letting the throws clip the main web. As I stated i know K1, Molnar, and Compstar are the best and SUPPOSED to just drop right in. I'm still looking for responses from people who have used a PEP or equal crank that can say if they had issues outside of the journals. In example bent, wrong diameter snout...stuff that will not be corrected on the grinder...

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you already know the answer, there are all kind of issues with the cheaper line. most of which are fitment issues that can be corrected. now if you have a crank grinder and other equipment available to fix and correct all them by all means do it. if not go straight to a higher end crank that will fit your needs and save time and money. I think any of them will fill your needs once corrected. get a hold of Todd at Competition Wedge and see what he has laying around.

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I've been using a PEP from Hughes in a 500 B-1 for 3 years now. Crack checked every year. Good so far. I tried a stock crank offset to 3.91 and it cracked the first season.

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What crank shop do you work at and where?

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What crank shop do you work at and where?

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No disrespect at all Mr.P (as you're one of the members on here that I value your knowledge) but I'm going to choose not to disclose that as I don't want to lose my privileges to do after hours side work like this. But it is a full machine shop not just a crank shop in downriver area.

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No problem... I just like to have shops in mind when
I need work done... I dont have any equipment to do
any of the block or crank work so I job that out

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I've been using a PEP from Hughes in a 500 B-1 for 3 years now. Crack checked every year. Good so far. I tried a stock crank offset to 3.91 and it cracked the first season.

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Did the PEP need much re-work before you could run it? I was reluctant to do a factory crank as the 1 guy I know that still runs them has broke 2 of them in the last 4 years in a 600 or so horse 440 bracket engine.
Thanks for chiming in with firsthand experience!

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What crank shop do you work at and where?

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No disrespect at all Mr.P (as you're one of the members on here that I value your knowledge) but I'm going to choose not to disclose that as I don't want to lose my privileges to do after hours side work like this. But it is a full machine shop not just a crank shop in downriver area.

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now I am really puzzled, I see you are pretty new to the board so i'll give you some benefit of the doubt. but if you work at a place that does this type of work everyday shouldn't you know what to expect? something just doesn't seem right here. not trying to be an ass so I wish you luck

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I've been using a PEP from Hughes in a 500 B-1 for 3 years now. Crack checked every year. Good so far. I tried a stock crank offset to 3.91 and it cracked the first season.

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I had a 3.90 stroke offset ground forged 440 crank come back cracked after a few seasons. In a pinch yep, but in my case grinding was cheap it was the balance job that hurt. Didn't foresee that one. If your doing an RB why stop at 3.90 get a longer stroke that they have in stock. By the way I currently run an Ohio and have had good results, my friends have used them also with good results. Always come back maged good.

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Puzzled that in the 3 years that I've been doing this that I've never had my hands on a crank from RPM, or PEP? Its pretty obvious that based on the large amount of people (one) who have chimed in with experience with these cranks that they must be EXTREMELY popular and abundant. Not to mention never seeing them advertsed anywhere like Eagle, Scat, K1, Ohio, and Molnar. I'm actually surprised and puzzled myself! Thanks for the wish of luck...
Thanks Mac56...BTW RPM and PEP use identical part numbers with PEP having more offerings

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I bought three 4.150 stroker cranks last year, I was told they where RPM brand, one of them was in a PEP box I haven't used any of them yet, the plan is to have all of them offset ground to either 4.250 or 4.300 stroke and turn the mains and counterweights down to B motor sizes and use them in 400 blocks. My current 400 block 505 C.I. bracket has a 4.250 Ohio crank in it, the last crank in my old 518 C.I. low deck stroker motor in the Duster has a Chinese 4.150 stroke RB crank offset ground to 4.300 stroke and cut down to fit in the 400 block Lots of choices out there

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now I am really puzzled, I see you are pretty new to the board so I'll give you some benefit of the doubt. but if you work at a place that does this type of work everyday shouldn't you know what to expect? something just doesn't seem right here. not trying to be an ass so I wish you luck

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Puzzled that in the 3 years that I've been doing this that I've never had my hands on a crank from RPM, or PEP? Its pretty obvious that based on the large amount of people (one) who have chimed in with experience with these cranks that they must be EXTREMELY popular and abundant. Not to mention never seeing them advertsed anywhere like Eagle, Scat, K1, Ohio, and Molnar. I'm actually surprised and puzzled myself! Thanks for the wish of luck...
Thanks Mac56...BTW RPM and PEP use identical part numbers with PEP having more offerings

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