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4.500 Bore x 4.250 stroke, 540 CID, B1 org, 2800 lbs, single four-barrel (a tunnel ram 2x4 would be nice), and 7500 rpm should run 8.5 or even better if the car works well. What is the chassis best 60ft and ET/mph?

An Enderle alcohol injection would be nice, I like my Ron's Flying Toilet injection too, but an alcohol carb will get the job done.

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If you were to build a Big Block Wedge to go drag racing, What would you build, and how?

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Low deck alloy block, B1 originals, with a gear driven procharger. Cubic inch would depend on pound per cube weight penalty when I win the lottery.

Steve

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That's a loaded question We see many racers that build beyond their budget and abilities because they are never satisfied once they attain a certain level of performance.They never consider the cost of maintaince and repair at higher performance levels nor do they consider all the other related cost associated with the faster classes.The cost of maintaining and operating a 10 second car and a 8 second car are miles apart.As mentioned earlier get a solid plan of what you want to accomplish,plot the venture step by step as far as cost verses your budget.Remember to include any and all other factors besides the engine.Usually engine upgrade means chassis and driveline upgrades.The cost can sprial out of control.
Most importantly know your skill and ability to be able to handle a faster car.Many get in over their heads find that they get a lesson they didn't intend on learning.
What ever you do think it through before starting the project and good luck.

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If you were to build a Big Block Wedge to go drag racing, What would you build, and how?

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Low deck alloy block, B1 originals, with a gear driven procharger. Cubic inch would depend on pound per cube weight penalty when I win the lottery.

Steve

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I've got an F1R ProCharger. Its not enough for a 572.
I've only had it for mocking up on a small block. I'll be getting rid of it and the small block cog kit.

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I know your waiting on your KB block but what is it
bored to.. a bit smaller cubes and the F1 might meet
your needs.. or sell off the F1 and pick up a F2...
shoot me a price for the F1 and is it with mounting

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That's a loaded question We see many racers that build beyond their budget and abilities because they are never satisfied once they attain a certain level of performance.They never consider the cost of maintaince and repair at higher performance levels nor do they consider all the other related cost associated with the faster classes.The cost of maintaining and operating a 10 second car and a 8 second car are miles apart.As mentioned earlier get a solid plan of what you want to accomplish,plot the venture step by step as far as cost verses your budget.Remember to include any and all other factors besides the engine.Usually engine upgrade means chassis and driveline upgrades.The cost can sprial out of control.
Most importantly know your skill and ability to be able to handle a faster car.Many get in over their heads find that they get a lesson they didn't intend on learning.
What ever you do think it through before starting the project and good luck.

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I dont mind building something to grow into or being able to mod up and go faster. I just hate buying things twice. Trying to plan ahead like that. I've been in 9 second cars for a while now. Never been into the 8's

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If you were to build a Big Block Wedge to go drag racing, What would you build, and how?

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Low deck alloy block, B1 originals, with a gear driven procharger. Cubic inch would depend on pound per cube weight penalty when I win the lottery.

Steve

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I've got an F1R ProCharger. Its not enough for a 572.
I've only had it for mocking up on a small block. I'll be getting rid of it and the small block cog kit.

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I know your waiting on your KB block but what is it
bored to.. a bit smaller cubes and the F1 might meet
your needs.. or sell off the F1 and pick up a F2...
shoot me a price for the F1 and is it with mounting

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It sounds like you are getting the right parts gathered together. My 572 ran some 8.40's@159mph with 440-1 heads, almost pump gas compression, and a cam ground for my B1 heads. My Daytona was around 2350 pounds. Hopefully running some 7.90's-8'0 when its out with my B1 heads, more compression, and probably alcohol.

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Wow that sounds really good!
But with my weight, and a tenth per 100lbs. That would put me at the 8.30 to 8.70 mark. That's counting on the same altitude too of corse.
I wouldn't be too upset at that though.

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That's a loaded question We see many racers that build beyond their budget and abilities because they are never satisfied once they attain a certain level of performance.They never consider the cost of maintaince and repair at higher performance levels nor do they consider all the other related cost associated with the faster classes.The cost of maintaining and operating a 10 second car and a 8 second car are miles apart.As mentioned earlier get a solid plan of what you want to accomplish,plot the venture step by step as far as cost verses your budget.Remember to include any and all other factors besides the engine.Usually engine upgrade means chassis and driveline upgrades.The cost can sprial out of control.
Most importantly know your skill and ability to be able to handle a faster car.Many get in over their heads find that they get a lesson they didn't intend on learning.
What ever you do think it through before starting the project and good luck.

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I dont mind building something to grow into or being able to mod up and go faster. I just hate buying things twice. Trying to plan ahead like that. I've been in 9 second cars for a while now. Never been into the 8's

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Another thing to consider is will you want to spray the motor eventually. A little spray can do wonders I am told. More can do, well... more. My car is supposed to go from 6.30 to 5 teen with a single stage. I haven't even tried the juice yet. I wish I had built the 540 so it could be sprayed.

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540 MEGA block 4.5 bore 4.25 stroke, 1050 dominator stage 6 heads .663 roller m1 intake
8.87 155 mph

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Send me that F1R would be cool on my old D100

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It is not that I am not a fan of cubic inches. It is that with Mopar bore spacing you are kinda limited in what we can do. We don't have parts nor are we going to get them to build a GOOD big cube motor. If we could get a good 4.600 bore block it would help some. Bore makes HP not stroke, think we have been here before.

I am building my first, and likely last big stroke Mopar. We will see if it is worth the effort, I am hoping I am pleasantly surprised with it. I will let everyone know how it turns out, both on the dyno and track. Happy to share any of my experiences for sure..

In your case with the heads you have I would stick to 4.25" stroke or less. Less meaning spin it harder. If you buy quality parts and put things together correctly there is no reason you cannot make close to 1000hp and do so reliably. I would go with a GOOD 4.25 crank, Callies at the least, aluminum rods, jesel belt and distributor, good oiling system, Manton pushrods, Isky EZ roll lifters, etc etc...

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I'm really curious about the build that you and your Kid did.

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I like seeing all the 4.500 x 4.250 540 engines here. That is how I did mine. I ought to dyno the thing before I put it in the Demon. Hopefully it will be reliable and low maintenance.

I have been told my 499 made 850 HP on the motor but it sure didn't feel like it to me on the track. Maybe my butt needs calibrating. It was a pretty serious build. Over 900 lift at the valves and it would rev up to 9000+, shift at 8600. Not low maintenance.

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I like seeing all the 4.500 x 4.250 540 engines here. That is how I did mine. I ought to dyno the thing before I put it in the Demon. Hopefully it will be reliable and low maintenance.

I have been told my 499 made 850 HP on the motor but it sure didn't feel like it to me on the track. Maybe my butt needs calibrating. It was a pretty serious build. Over 900 lift at the valves and it would rev up to 9000+, shift at 8600. Not low maintenance.

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Oh wow, I don't want to be there.

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Me either. I baby my stuff so I can race weekly.