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Great data. To make adjustments increase or decrease PSI to get temp even or the "slant of temp" even. As an example:
if you saw from inside to outside:

110/120/105

You have too much air in the tire.

A decrease in pressure by 2 psi would probably net you:

112/115/110

Further Decrease would get you to:

113/113/112

Which would be about on the money.

Lets say you see...

100/115/130

This would tell you the car is lacking camber and the outside of the tire needs to come in. A couple factors come in to see if you want to make the adjustment using static camber or caster.

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A couple factors come in to see if you want to make the adjustment using static camber or caster.

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Great data. To make adjustments increase or decrease PSI to get temp even or the "slant of temp" even. As an example:
if you saw from inside to outside:

110/120/105

You have too much air in the tire.

A decrease in pressure by 2 psi would probably net you:

112/115/110

Further Decrease would get you to:

113/113/112

Which would be about on the money.

Lets say you see...

100/115/130

This would tell you the car is lacking camber and the outside of the tire needs to come in. A couple factors come in to see if you want to make the adjustment using static camber or caster.

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Dan-

Thanks for the reply! I'm with you on interpreting the temp data, but the data didn't fall in line as expected with the changes I made. Dropping the pressure didn't align the temperature readings, and hurt the performance.

Adding camber helped, but didn't entirely solve the issue.

I'm thinking I'm losing effective camber in a corner due to body roll. The roll couple is close, but I don't think the front roll bar is coming into play early enough to combat the roll. Thoughts?

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A couple factors come in to see if you want to make the adjustment using static camber or caster.

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I'd love to hear more on this...

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I'm sure you would..there is a reason I get paid a lot of money to help people set up their cars for the track. And my cars are always on the podium

To be honest, I'd have to drive the car. Steve has a great suggestion on checking your roll rates. How is the steering (responsiveness/under/over) on the car?

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I'm sure you would..there is a reason I get paid a lot of money to help people set up their cars for the track. And my cars are always on the podium

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Bigger torsion bars.

And/Or stiffer slow speed shocks to slow down the rate of weight transfer. And/Or stiffer slow speed compression front shocks and stiffer setting slow speed rebound on rear shocks.

And/Or too aggressive driving line entering corners (too hot in). Driving instructor's input/feelings?

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I've run Super Sports on both my 3500lb 69 Barracuda and my 2013 3700lb Mustang GT and to be honest, I think your tire wear isn't really abnormal. When you track a heavy car on a 300 treadware street tire, with an alignment that is remotely streetable, the outside of the tire is going to wear faster. I've found the pressure sweet spot for my SuperSports to be 38/34 on a road course, and 32/30 on a shorter autocross track. I have since switched to Falken RT615Ks and found the sidewalls to be stiffer than the Michelins, and that has improved the vagueness on turn-in you described. The new Dunlop Z2 will be the next tire I try, particularly since you can dismount them and run them on the other side of the car to equalize wear....

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Bigger torsion bars.

And/Or stiffer slow speed shocks to slow down the rate of weight transfer. And/Or stiffer slow speed compression front shocks and stiffer setting slow speed rebound on rear shocks.

And/Or too aggressive driving line entering corners (too hot in). Driving instructor's input/feelings?

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I disagree with you on needing bigger torsion bars. I've got plenty of wheel rate between the TB's and sway bar, I just need that wheel rate to come in sooner. Solid end links, maybe?

That being said, larger TB's would be easier to align. Just if I make that move now, I'll upset the balance I have, and will need to replace a second component as well.

None of the 4 instructors that got in the car had any complaints about the handling of the car; quite the opposite- I think they were all impressed. My main instructor spent a good amount of time feeling the car out, including evaluating the suspension set up and response. His only complaint was the throttle engagement (too aggressive).

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Bigger torsion bars.

And/Or stiffer slow speed shocks to slow down the rate of weight transfer. And/Or stiffer slow speed compression front shocks and stiffer setting slow speed rebound on rear shocks.

And/Or too aggressive driving line entering corners (too hot in). Driving instructor's input/feelings?

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I disagree with you on needing bigger torsion bars. I've got plenty of wheel rate between the TB's and sway bar, I just need that wheel rate to come in sooner. Solid end links, maybe?

That being said, larger TB's would be easier to align. Just if I make that move now, I'll upset the balance I have, and will need to replace a second component as well.

None of the 4 instructors that got in the car had any complaints about the handling of the car; quite the opposite- I think they were all impressed. My main instructor spent a good amount of time feeling the car out, including evaluating the suspension set up and response. His only complaint was the throttle engagement (too aggressive).

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Then if it's just sooner (time) try the end link deal. Stiffen shocks would be a time deal too.

Maybe I'm over fixating on that picture where the car is in a tight turn and looks like it's loosing camber.

You have an adjustable rear sway bar? Where are you with the setting now?

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Good talking to you just now Dan. Thanks for taking the time!

wade

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Thanks for the heads up! I went ahead and flipped the more worn set and put them on the rear. Will probably give up some traction with the 'wrong' compound facing out, but my set up can stand to lose a little traction in the rear and still be fine.

38/34 for super sports- is that cold or hot?

Oh yeah- my tire guy agreed with you- didn't think the wear was that abnormal. Shoot, the inner to outer main tread wear was only 2/32 off (7/32 vs 5/32). He indicated wearing through the side block wasn't a concern to him.

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That's my cold pressure. As your tires wear, you should notice they don't wear out quite as quickly, the tread blocks are more stable with less than 1/2 instead of full tread...

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That's good to know!


Also, for those of you following the thread, I was able to reduce the body roll significantly today. Put these in:

MasterPro K750074 - $28 each at Oreilly. That's also the Moog PN
-5.3" mounting point to mounting point (longer than factory?)

This is a 'must do' modification in my book. $60 cheap.





I don't have definitive test data on tire temps with this modification yet (started to rain this morning), but I can say the 'feel' was much improved. better turn in response, and much less body roll. It didn't change the roll couple, as the car is still close to balanced. It pushed slightly on the skidpad and kicked the rear out on a damp turn a few minutes later.

We've got bad weather the next two days, so I won't run the car until the event this weekend. I'll report back and include pictures and video.

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MasterPro K750074 - $28 each at Oreilly. That's also the Moog PN
-5.3" mounting point to mounting point (longer than factory?)

This is a 'must do' modification in my book. $60 cheap.

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