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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: actionange]
#1548277
12/17/13 04:15 PM
12/17/13 04:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
Taking time off to work on my car
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Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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Quote:
...I'm still using one in my 67 Belvedere running low 10s. It weighs at least 3750 lbs race ready. Leaving at approx. 2000 rpm. 1.42 60 ft so I'm not beating it at the hit.
Using Mark Williams axles, spool and Richmond gears.
Like the Everready Bunny...still going.
Sounds familiar since in my case it's...
- mid-10s
- 2000 RPM leave
- 3750#s
- 1.45 60s
... and the parts I mentioned using above.
But I'm still expecting it's a time bomb and getting more serious lately about a D60 upgrade. 
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: actionange]
#1548279
12/17/13 07:27 PM
12/17/13 07:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I don't want to hurt fealings or step on toes but with his set-up IT WILL BREAK!
Any diff can break with enough abuse.
I speak from experience 3800lbs 69 Roadrunner with a 10" slick, 5 speed, Cal-Tracs, around 650lbs/ft torque. I have broke axles, bent things on a Dana 60. The 8 3/4 would have destoyed it self long, long ago. 
 I wouldn't recommend an 8-3/4 to anyone but everybody knows that. 
This has been discussed by you and I before Quicktree. I'm still using one in my 67 Belvedere running low 10s. It weighs at least 3750 lbs race ready. Leaving at approx. 2000 rpm. 1.42 60 ft so I'm not beating it at the hit.
Using Mark Williams axles, spool and Richmond gears.
Like the Everready Bunny...still going.
Happy Holidays!
what size and type of rear tire do you run?
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: cudaman1969]
#1548281
12/17/13 09:02 PM
12/17/13 09:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,166
Plymouth, MI
Blusmbl
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,166
Plymouth, MI
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ET Streets + 5 speed = broken 8 3/4's. It will live if you never do clutch dumps with it, but then why have a clutch in the first place?  I would put a Dana 60 in it and never worry again.
'18 Ford Raptor, random motorcycles, 1968 Plymouth Fury III - 11.37 @ 118
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: racerx]
#1548283
12/18/13 03:21 AM
12/18/13 03:21 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.
As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before
Monte
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1548284
12/18/13 04:19 AM
12/18/13 04:19 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.
As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before
Monte
there you have it in a nut shell, and nothing you can do to prevent it.
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: Quicktree]
#1548285
12/18/13 09:12 AM
12/18/13 09:12 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,627
anywhere@ anytime
actionange
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,627
anywhere@ anytime
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I don't want to hurt fealings or step on toes but with his set-up IT WILL BREAK!
Any diff can break with enough abuse.
I speak from experience 3800lbs 69 Roadrunner with a 10" slick, 5 speed, Cal-Tracs, around 650lbs/ft torque. I have broke axles, bent things on a Dana 60. The 8 3/4 would have destoyed it self long, long ago.
I wouldn't recommend an 8-3/4 to anyone but everybody knows that.
This has been discussed by you and I before Quicktree. I'm still using one in my 67 Belvedere running low 10s. It weighs at least 3750 lbs race ready. Leaving at approx. 2000 rpm. 1.42 60 ft so I'm not beating it at the hit.
Using Mark Williams axles, spool and Richmond gears.
Like the Everready Bunny...still going.
Happy Holidays!
what size and type of rear tire do you run?
9x28 Hoosier bias ply Slick or M/T 9x28 bias ply Slick
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: actionange]
#1548286
12/18/13 09:27 AM
12/18/13 09:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I don't want to hurt fealings or step on toes but with his set-up IT WILL BREAK!
Any diff can break with enough abuse.
I speak from experience 3800lbs 69 Roadrunner with a 10" slick, 5 speed, Cal-Tracs, around 650lbs/ft torque. I have broke axles, bent things on a Dana 60. The 8 3/4 would have destoyed it self long, long ago.
I wouldn't recommend an 8-3/4 to anyone but everybody knows that.
This has been discussed by you and I before Quicktree. I'm still using one in my 67 Belvedere running low 10s. It weighs at least 3750 lbs race ready. Leaving at approx. 2000 rpm. 1.42 60 ft so I'm not beating it at the hit.
Using Mark Williams axles, spool and Richmond gears.
Like the Everready Bunny...still going.
Happy Holidays!
what size and type of rear tire do you run?
9x28 Hoosier bias ply Slick or M/T 9x28 bias ply Slick
there you have it, I did the same thing with a small 9" slick many years ago. believe it or not you are not dead hooking with that tire, you get just enough slip to let the rear live. and yes you can still lift the front wheels and have a little slip. the combo works for you right now but put a 10.5 on it and watch it explode. been there done that going from a 9" to bigger tire. Monte was spot on....
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#1548288
12/18/13 01:40 PM
12/18/13 01:40 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
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Quote:
What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.
As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before
Monte
Guess I`m not making enuff power to kill mine which is probably a blessing and 1.36 60`s are helping also I guess.  Been adding up parts and prices and the 9" can get stupid expensive in a hurry so when I can I`m ordering a complete Dana-60 from Dr. Diff........... 
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: J_BODY]
#1548294
12/18/13 06:23 PM
12/18/13 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155
Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155
Tucson, Arizona
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Jay, It's John's Dart. He was getting input that an 8 3/4 would take it. He's put a 5 speed in the car and has CalTracs on the way. You know he's going to lean on it. I wanted to get more input for he to see before he dumped some coin in an 8 3/4 and then have to spend more later. How's the Duster coming along? matt
[img] [/img]
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Re: Will a 8 3/4 Live?
[Re: Thumperdart]
#1548295
12/18/13 06:46 PM
12/18/13 06:46 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Quote:
What the car 60fts and really, even what it weighs is of no consequence as to whether you will break the rear or not. WHAT matters is how well you stick the tire and how much torque it makes. If you make torque AND stick the tire, the case and pinion flexes as the pinion tries to climb the ring gear. This flex pulls the pinion gear away from the ring gear and it shears teeth. A back brace keeps you from bending the axle tubes, but does ZERO to address the chunk or pinion flex. Breaking caps, is a result of the other stuff moving around. Good caps may make the gear set last longer, but still does NOT address the problem. Even if you have a better case, such as the alum MP unit, the pinion stem is still too small. Bottom line, you are NOT going to "fix" the weakness in the 8.75, I don't care how much money you spend on it. The design is just inferior to other rears. If you make power and halfway stick the tire, you WILL break it.
As for gears, Motive bought out Richmond and all the gears are made in Italy and are actually a better quality of steel than before
Monte
Guess I`m not making enuff power to kill mine which is probably a blessing and 1.36 60`s are helping also I guess. Been adding up parts and prices and the 9" can get stupid expensive in a hurry so when I can I`m ordering a complete Dana-60 from Dr. Diff...........
Not really true......lets look at some pricing. A junkyard 9" or Dana housing are easily found. 9" are everywhere and will be dirt cheap. A pass car Dana, if you find one in a bone yard, will cost more and a truck housing will be even heavier and require more work. Both will likely need to be narrowed, new perches, brackets etc. The Ford will require a back brace. So considering initial cost and work involved, the junkyard route is probably a wash on cost or in favor of Ford.
Aftermarket cost boils down to what you want and how much you are willing to spend on a housing. The S-60 housing is NOT cheap and Fords can be had from a couple hundred, to a couple thousand, just depends on what you want.
Axles are a wash.
Brakes are a wash. If you have Mopar brakes already, you can put Mopar ends on your Ford and reuse them. Again a wash.
A Dana spool is $225 and bearings are $74........Jegs prices
A 9" spool is $152 and bearings are $40.............Jegs prices
Gears a wash or in Ford favor depending on ratio desired, as Dana is VERY limited.
So at this point, the Ford is likely $100 or more cheaper, depending on what you did for a housing and gears.
Where the Ford costs more is the chunk.......BUT...not everybody needs an $1100 MW thru bolt case. You can get a Nodular Iron Strange case that will be fine for most street strip applications for $250 or the Nodular Pro Series case for $300. You will need an aluminum or Nodular pinion support for the Ford, depending on power level and these can range from less than $200 to more than $1000. Again depends on what you WANT to spend.
So at THIS point, the Ford might be a couple hundred more than the Ford.........but to me personally, the drop out center and less weight make the Ford the no-brainer choice for me. Despite what some purists think, there is no law that says a Mopar MUST have a Dana.
Monte
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so i guess your option now or Motive,Yokoun gears 
..........that's my 
