What exactly should manula drum brakes feel like? I have manual drum all the way around on my 68 charger, and the pedal goes almost to the floor unless pumped. I adjusted the shoes at all corners and its better, to the point where the brake warning light does not come on...the rears were way out. It's a reman master cylinder, and I have all new lines (soft and hard) plus all new wheel cylinders. The proportioning valve was disassembled and cleaned. No leaks anywhere, is this just how it is?

Bleed your system again. Manual brake systems dont have proportioning valve, they have distrubition blocks..

Cab thats backwards from all bleed sequinces Ive ever read.You always start RR then LR then the fronts.Only one differnt Ive done in over 40 years was the split diag systems.Then it was RR LF LR then RF.Rocky

when i was younger i bled brakes in no particular order and they were fine.but sayin "WHOA NELLY BELL"was a different time and somtimes slow to react.

The sequence Cab recommended sounds backwards to me as well, but I recently heard/read somewhere else to do it that way. I always start furthest from the MC and work my way closer and I've never had a problem.

Pedal should be rock hard only slightly depressed, as described. You will never get these things anywhere near the floor once all setup correctly and bled.

Bleed em again Paul. Must have air in the lines.

Bought a HF power bleeder, seems like I'm not getting fluid to the front wheels, going to disconnect and blow out with air. What a PIA

On my 68 Charger I had new hoses that did not let the fluid pass through. I even tried to run a steel rod through them, OK, but It seemed like the ordinary brake fluid made them swoll and tighten up inside. I ended up installing the old hoses again, then it all worked out perfectly. The new hoses were made in India. My

Are you sure you have the shoes adjusted correctly? If they are too far out of adjustment, the wheel cylinder runs out of travel before the shoes contact the drum and you have to pump it for more travel. The 11" on my cars are manual adjust, not self adjust, so they won't fix themselves like on most other brakes.

You mention the brake light coming on before you adjusted them last. I didn't think adjusting the brakes would have anything to do with the light, it's supposed to light up when there's a hydraulic problem.

If a brake re-adjust and re-bleed doesn't fix it, I'd try a new MC.

Yep all 4 wheels are adjusted. With the power bleeder I cab barely pull anything at the front wheels. Hoses are new from summit but I will test them. Master cylinder was replaced by them once already, it's gotta be the hoses or something in the front lines.

just wondering what was all done to the brake system? did the pedal ever feel good for you before or did you get the car that way? was the master push rod ever changed with a wrong one?

Car was off the road since 83. I think it may be the front rubber lines, I'll find out Thursday morning.

I'm stumped. All new hard lines, soft lines, wheel cylinders, and on a second master cylinder from Summit.

I pulled a rubber line on the front and was able to draw a solid line of fluid from the hard line; I then placed the rubber line in a container and was able to pull solid fluid through it. I put it back together and I can only get a trickle from the front bleeder screws. I can't imagine I need a thread sealer on the bleeder screws!

Is it possible there is an issue with the junction block not working correctly? After all of this I still have to pump the brakes multiple times to build any pressure, it makes 0 sense. When I bled the rear I was able to pull solid fluid, at least one side.

There are no leaks yet I can't pull a solid line at the front wheels. F'n baffled.

Time to sell that POS '68 to me! LOL

hahaha never! I want to be buried in that car

At this point, you've got good fluid flow to the wheel cylinders, but only one will bleed???