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My aluminum blocks, I've used World, KB, and Indy, all made very close to the same power (within 10HP) that my steel blocks did. My world and KB engines had zero leak down when fresh, warm, and 2% when tired. Steel, is not worth the extra weight IMO.

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. Now if you are a Comp or Pro Stock racer then maybe it is worth the added cost to use a CG block.

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Being a old class racer where every HP and every .0001 counts I want to make sure everyone on here is aware of what I'm aware of Al, as far as high RPM you know who I'm using as a reference BTW, isn't your 99 hemi block iron Lots of options out there

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Randy,

Read my "514 on the dyno" thread when you get a chance. I've already been down the road that you're taking. I used a World iron block but the rest if fairly similiar. If you read that thread carefully and look at the pictures you'll get some ideas.

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Seriously Cab how many people on here care enough to find every last .0001 in their combinations. Heck the average guy cries about changing converters or buying good shocks. You think they really want, care or need that last 15 hp??

Yep compacted graphite actually. Nothing else under $10K available. Also not your average bracket deal, 10,200 RPM scares most folks away for sure. HOWEVER trust me when I win the lottery those heads will have a CN block underneath them for sure. Oh yeah that motor weighs in at 884lbs as well




I stand by what I said. 99.9% of the racers out there will not see enough HP from an iron block to overcome the additional weight they carry.

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100%. Way to many guys sitting at home polishing their dynos instead of hitting the track for some real life numbers.

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Seriously Cab how many people on here care enough to find every last .0001 in their combinations. Heck the average guy cries about changing converters or buying good shocks. You think they really want, care or need that last 15 hp??

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I'm a naysayer when it comes to N/A motors and aluminum blocks do to the inherit problems on ring seal They won't hold as good as ring seal as the cast grey iron, high nickel and compact graphite iron will The iron blocks are heavier, 325 lbs.+

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Cab, One of the things I see quite often is aluminum blocks that were improperly honed, causing all sorts of ring seal issues. Depending on several factors, that alone can cause a major loss of power. I would tell anyone that's going to use an aluminum block to make sure their choice of shop knows the difference between the material the liners are made of and a grey cast iron cylinder, or at the very least, contact the manufacturer for honing instructions.

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Seriously Cab how many people on here care enough to find every last .0001 in their combinations. Heck the average guy cries about changing converters or buying good shocks. You think they really want, care or need that last 15 hp??

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The Aluminum Block is $2k+ more than the iron....so the ¨average guy that cries about changing converters or buying good shocks¨ will of course opt for the 2k cheaper iron block and the extra 15hp that weighs 100 lbs. more.....

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I don't know if you have been watching prices lately, but e NEW cast iron block can run you $2900-$3500 and an Indy Maxx aluminum block is $4300...Not so much of a stretch really. I lucked out and got a new block for $2700 delivered and no taxes.

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Randy,

Read my "514 on the dyno" thread when you get a chance. I've already been down the road that you're taking. I used a World iron block but the rest if fairly similiar. If you read that thread carefully and look at the pictures you'll get some ideas.

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Andy where would one find this 514 on the dyno thread I tried doing a search :-(

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KB if you have the time to spare & $$

Indy Max would be my second choice, just purchase it thru one of their dealers.

In my dealings with World Products, I will effectively say, they match Indy for horrible customer service and $hitty attitude...And I will NEVER buy anything again with their logo on it, keep it I don't need the issues or the attitude that comes with it!

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Seriously Cab how many people on here care enough to find every last .0001 in their combinations. Heck the average guy cries about changing converters or buying good shocks. You think they really want, care or need that last 15 hp??

Yep compacted graphite actually. Nothing else under $10K available. Also not your average bracket deal, 10,200 RPM scares most folks away for sure. HOWEVER trust me when I win the lottery those heads will have a CN block underneath them for sure. Oh yeah that motor weighs in at 884lbs as well

I stand by what I said. 99.9% of the racers out there will not see enough HP from an iron block to overcome the additional weight they carry.

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Let me qualify my reasonings on block choices, for all out power on a N/A motor would be compact graphite iron first, cast grey iron second and billet aluminum block third with cast aluminum last. For a street or bracket motor it would be a stock cast grey iron unless soemone gave me a aluminum block for free or testing, any offers All kidding aside as Al pointed out, when your not going for all out results, high HP and high RPM, above 7000 RPM then aluminum will seal fine for most appliction, above 7000 RPM you want the best ring seal you can get(vacume pump grounds) and most aluminum blocks will not seal as good as most good cast iron blocks will One of the things that is taught in comercial flying is the expansion differences between aluminum, iron and steel, especially in motors. Aluminum expands 8 times more than steel and iron Hence the need to set the valve lash tighter when cold on a motor with aluminum heads, even more on a all aluminum motor. So if you want 15.0 to 1 compression you better allow for the block and head growth when machining that kind of motor so you get what you want, allow for block growth up and out as well as the combustion chamber growth Enough pot stirring stimulation from me today

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I'm planning on going aluminum 540 in november. I made a post on another site about an Indy Maxx block and got whipped up on, so to speak. I was going to let Josh Handle it. But thought about it today until I decided I may just order the block and rotating assembly and do it myself. Then after this post, I was thinking of maybe contacting performance only and seeing if he could do my B1 short block and maybe even the full assembly. I have been quite busy all over the Northern continent and hadn't had much time. I plan on a 4.5 bore 4.25 stroke in an r block with rb mains so far.And use one of the sets of my B1 originals I have. I had even considered a KB block. If I can get my dart down to 2350 lbs and around 950 hp, I feel I would have a strong solid combo. I may keep my 511 B1 steel block engine as a spare, or put it in something else.

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