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... and if you look at the one picture of the crank flange it looks like the back of the flywheel isn't in plane with the back of the block.

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I was noticing the same thing .

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In my first response I was thinking that it looked like that was what happened, but wasn't sure if it was just a funny picture. Still, something was the source of a vibration with the transmission installed, which makes me think that whatever the failure was the root cause was in the bellhousing runout.

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From one of your posts in the old thread

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with the clutch, pressure plate, d-shaft and trans out there was no vibration at any rpm.
put in new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (refurbished from brewers), rebuilt transmission, new throw out bearing, and the vibration is still there

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Re read that several times and think it through, the answer appears to be somewhere in the second sentence of the above quote

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Refurbished flywheel from a well known, all Mopar transmission guy?

The camera angle was weird on that pic as the flywheel looks even all the way around once fully under the car. It won't budge anywhere with a pry bar. I'll be able to talk with my dad tomorrow to see what the plan of attack is.

edit: also, the vibration is not as bad as it used to be before all of these new parts were put on it. It wasn't jarring or anything horrible, just enough to annoy you. But most of that subsided. Since we have been working on this problem, it has gone 2-300 miles at the most. That's including the old set up and when the problem appeared. So he hasn't driven it much at all because of it, just don't want you all to think that he's been driving it all around with this problem.
I've driven my super bee 25,000 miles on a transmission and bell set up that we did years ago. Have had my transmission in and out 3 times since I've owned it. Not saying mistakes don't happen, but we've done this in the past and no problems.


Also to clarify exactly what the vibration was felt in all of these scenarios:
-At a dead stop with clutch pushed in and revved up and with clutch released when revved up.
-Driving, no particular speed was it felt at, only at the rpm level. (Just the same thing as if it was at a dead stop).
So really that takes out the driveshaft, although I understand "good" pinion angle is not guaranteed.
Would the possibility of poorly welded front floor pans cause a flex on the area where the transmission mount is....? Trying to think out of the box .
I still will investigate all ideas you all have written. I really do appreciate it everyone

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The camera angle was weird on that pic as the flywheel looks even all the way around once fully under the car. It won't budge anywhere with a pry bar. I'll be able to talk with my dad tomorrow to see what the plan of attack is.

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From one of your posts in the old thread

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with the clutch, pressure plate, d-shaft and trans out there was no vibration at any rpm.
put in new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (refurbished from brewers), rebuilt transmission, new throw out bearing, and the vibration is still there

---

Re read that several times and think it through, the answer appears to be somewhere in the second sentence of the above quote

---

Refurbished flywheel from a well known, all Mopar transmission guy?

The camera angle was weird on that pic as the flywheel looks even all the way around once fully under the car. It won't budge anywhere with a pry bar. I'll be able to talk with my dad tomorrow to see what the plan of attack is.

edit: also, the vibration is not as bad as it used to be before all of these new parts were put on it. It wasn't jarring or anything horrible, just enough to annoy you. But most of that subsided. Since we have been working on this problem, it has gone 2-300 miles at the most. That's including the old set up and when the problem appeared. So he hasn't driven it much at all because of it, just don't want you all to think that he's been driving it all around with this problem.
I've driven my super bee 25,000 miles on a transmission and bell set up that we did years ago. Have had my transmission in and out 3 times since I've owned it. Not saying mistakes don't happen, but we've done this in the past and no problems.


Also to clarify exactly what the vibration was felt in all of these scenarios:
-At a dead stop with clutch pushed in and revved up and with clutch released when revved up.
-Driving, no particular speed was it felt at, only at the rpm level. (Just the same thing as if it was at a dead stop).
So really that takes out the driveshaft, although I understand "good" pinion angle is not guaranteed.
Would the possibility of poorly welded front floor pans cause a flex on the area where the transmission mount is....? Trying to think out of the box .
I still will investigate all ideas you all have written. I really do appreciate it everyone

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From one of your posts in the old thread

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with the clutch, pressure plate, d-shaft and trans out there was no vibration at any rpm.
put in new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (refurbished from brewers), rebuilt transmission, new throw out bearing, and the vibration is still there

---

Re read that several times and think it through, the answer appears to be somewhere in the second sentence of the above quote

---

Refurbished flywheel from a well known, all Mopar transmission guy?

The camera angle was weird on that pic as the flywheel looks even all the way around once fully under the car. It won't budge anywhere with a pry bar. I'll be able to talk with my dad tomorrow to see what the plan of attack is.

edit: also, the vibration is not as bad as it used to be before all of these new parts were put on it. It wasn't jarring or anything horrible, just enough to annoy you. But most of that subsided. Since we have been working on this problem, it has gone 2-300 miles at the most. That's including the old set up and when the problem appeared. So he hasn't driven it much at all because of it, just don't want you all to think that he's been driving it all around with this problem.
I've driven my super bee 25,000 miles on a transmission and bell set up that we did years ago. Have had my transmission in and out 3 times since I've owned it. Not saying mistakes don't happen, but we've done this in the past and no problems.


Also to clarify exactly what the vibration was felt in all of these scenarios:
-At a dead stop with clutch pushed in and revved up and with clutch released when revved up.
-Driving, no particular speed was it felt at, only at the rpm level. (Just the same thing as if it was at a dead stop).
So really that takes out the driveshaft, although I understand "good" pinion angle is not guaranteed.
Would the possibility of poorly welded front floor pans cause a flex on the area where the transmission mount is....? Trying to think out of the box .
I still will investigate all ideas you all have written. I really do appreciate it everyone

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Have the floor pans been replaced ?

I'd be looking at an imbalance with the Flywheel and pressure plate .

Did you confirm the flywheel was neutral balance or did you just ASSuME it because you got the flywheel from "a well known, all Mopar transmission guy" ?

Not that I'm knocking Wayne, but I have bought high dollar parts from big name companies that were not as good as they should have been.

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I would not even be thinking about the floor pans etc. An old engineering manager of mine would call that "chasing ghosts". The answer is somewhere in your previous post.

The vibration appears after installing the clutch assembly and transmission, OK that would indicate to me the vibration was due to
1. something in the clutch assembly.
2. A problem with the bell housing itself
3. The transmission.

Another thing to keep in mind is, we don't know that the vibration caused the failure only that it was there before. the 40 year old bell housing may have been fractured due to being dropped and it was not apparent.
I have seen 2 very similar failures (almost identical) both were caused by an incorrect bearing retainer OD to Bell housing ID.

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I see what you're saying, but this has been happening after two different clutches, pressure plates, bellhousings, flywheels, bearings in the crank and after a complete re-haul of the transmission, new fork etc. The car has never been wrecked either (i don't think I answered that earlier).So I can't dismiss something as dumb(trust me, I know it is dumb) as that. But it could have simply been the bellhousing, i believe that was the first thing I found in the road when I retrieved pieces. Once we take it out I will check the bearing sizes.
I'll be back with more info/pictures on Wednesday at the earliest, or if dad pulls it out by himself before then. Isn't too hard since the only thing holding the transmission is the transmission mount .
Thanks again fellas

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I would not even be thinking about the floor pans etc. An old engineering manager of mine would call that "chasing ghosts". The answer is somewhere in your previous post.

The vibration appears after installing the clutch assembly and transmission, OK that would indicate to me the vibration was due to
1. something in the clutch assembly.
2. A problem with the bell housing itself
3. The transmission.

Another thing to keep in mind is, we don't know that the vibration caused the failure only that it was there before. the 40 year old bell housing may have been fractured due to being dropped and it was not apparent.
I have seen 2 very similar failures (almost identical) both were caused by an incorrect bearing retainer OD to Bell housing ID.

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I would not even be thinking about the floor pans etc. An old engineering manager of mine would call that "chasing ghosts". The answer is somewhere in your previous post.

The vibration appears after installing the clutch assembly and transmission, OK that would indicate to me the vibration was due to
1. something in the clutch assembly.
2. A problem with the bell housing itself
3. The transmission.

Another thing to keep in mind is, we don't know that the vibration caused the failure only that it was there before. the 40 year old bell housing may have been fractured due to being dropped and it was not apparent.
I have seen 2 very similar failures (almost identical) both were caused by an incorrect bearing retainer OD to Bell housing ID.

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I see what you're saying, but this has been happening after two different clutches, pressure plates, bellhousings, flywheels, bearings in the crank and after a complete re-haul of the transmission, new fork etc. The car has never been wrecked either (i don't think I answered that earlier).So I can't dismiss something as dumb(trust me, I know it is dumb) as that. But it could have simply been the bellhousing, i believe that was the first thing I found in the road when I retrieved pieces. Once we take it out I will check the bearing sizes.
I'll be back with more info/pictures on Wednesday at the earliest, or if dad pulls it out by himself before then. Isn't too hard since the only thing holding the transmission is the transmission mount .
Thanks again fellas

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The motor rebuild was a different block and all internal stuff was different. The old 440 is still sitting in the shed with just the heads off, intake and carb off, they're on the new block. The only reason flywheel and stuff was switched originally was bc we were looking for what the vibration was from. Different motor, flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, etc and it still the exact same symptoms (vibration when in higher rpm's). I may jump on taking parts out Saturday, just because I'm curious on the extent of damage and of course to get your all's help.

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JohnRR, you may be forgetting that he says it vibrated with the clutch pedal in, also vibrated with the clutch pedal out but the transmission in neutral.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is either a perception problem or something off the wall like a distributor with slightly misshaped toothed wheel or cam.

R.

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Could be all of the above ???

Was the car in motion while the clutch pedal was pushed in or was it stationary ?

IF stationary that points to an engine imbalance , but with 2 different engines ?

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JohnRR, you may be forgetting that he says it vibrated with the clutch pedal in, also vibrated with the clutch pedal out but the transmission in neutral.

I'm beginning to wonder if it is either a perception problem or something off the wall like a distributor with slightly misshaped toothed wheel or cam.

R.

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Could be all of the above ???

Was the car in motion while the clutch pedal was pushed in or was it stationary ?

IF stationary that points to an engine imbalance , but with 2 different engines ?

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Hadn't thought of that. I had a problem that I coulda swore was my carburetor. But putting a different coil on it fixed the problem, even though I was just changing it just to change it. Who knows at this point what it is, I haven't messed with it and don't know if dad has either.

Clutch pushed in and out, moving or sitting still and it is felt.

More to come in a few days.