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Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
#1429397
05/02/13 09:13 PM
05/02/13 09:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 569
Pasco, WA
440mag
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 569
Pasco, WA
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Will have my car back from the blaster in a couple of days. Plan on painting it with a water based paint. What should I prime or seal it up with prior to completing the body work?
Thanks
Last edited by 440mag; 05/02/13 09:50 PM.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: 440mag]
#1429398
05/02/13 11:00 PM
05/02/13 11:00 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,528
Southeast PA
5wndwcpe
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,528
Southeast PA
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Hit it with 80 grit or st the very least, a red Scotchbrite pad, degrease and lay two coats of epoxy on it.
1968 GTX hardtop
1968 Sport Satellite Convertible 383/4spd
1933 Plymouth coupe
2002 Ram 2500 oil burner 4x4
2015 Grand Cherokee
2013 Challenger
1957 Chrysler Saratoga
Man...I need a bigger freakin' garage.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: 5wndwcpe]
#1429401
05/03/13 09:02 AM
05/03/13 09:02 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Hit it with 80 grit or st the very least, a red Scotchbrite pad, degrease and lay two coats of epoxy on it.
Don't touch it after blasting. It sure don't need to scotchbrited or even sanded after blasted. You will just make it worse if you try to do anything besides painting it after blasting.
Blow it off and cover it with epoxy primer.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1429402
05/03/13 10:38 AM
05/03/13 10:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,376
NORTHERN CA
HUSTLESTUFF
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,376
NORTHERN CA
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I agree with Challenger. I will add buy some new white gloves to move it around. I like NorthStar epoxy. Dilute it 1:1:1.25
"Were in it to win it. Anything less will end up being..... A whole lot of fun doing!!" UNLAWFL
RIP UN
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: 440mag]
#1429407
05/04/13 01:11 PM
05/04/13 01:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
edp
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
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Quote:
Thanks for the replies.
Using the waterborne because it looks to be working well. I can spray it myself without an air supplied respirator.
regardless of H2O paint you'll need a respirator. are you doing a base / clear application or is it a single stage paint? Lots of clears are still solvent based so you'll still need very good ventilation along with a respirator, doesn't have to be supplied air if you have adequate air flow.
Dawn dish soap works really well as a first stage washing & cleaner, after that wipe down with a wax a grease remover then shoot epoxy which BTW is solvent based - at least what I've used and as a positive it doesn't have Isocyanates.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: 440mag]
#1429409
05/05/13 12:49 PM
05/05/13 12:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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I blast them then epoxy or etch prime the same day. I just blow off all the sand, usually when on the rotisserie so I can spin it to get all the sand. But no matter how hard you try, so sand will still show up when priming. I don't wipe them off with anything, just blast then prime.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: Stanton]
#1429411
05/05/13 03:09 PM
05/05/13 03:09 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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If it's not blasted clean, it will rust again eventually. If I can't do it right away, I use polycarbide wheels on an angle grinder to get nice clean metal then prime after.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: Silver70]
#1429412
05/05/13 06:02 PM
05/05/13 06:02 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
edp
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
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washing it after blasting is additional insurance, if your worried about flash rust that can occur just from humidity, if it does hit it with 80 grit on a DA and get rid of it.
After blasting there can be contaminant on/in the metal-it needs to be scrubbed off, dawn works well because it doesn't have abunch of other things in it, scents, etc.....& it leaves no residue if rinced properly.
I've painted many parts with epoxy after just a dawn scrub, no epoxy failures. Wax & grease removers won't get everything , the cleaner the part you start with the less W & G work necessary.
If you do a lot of DA sanding for paint removal that can force residues into the metal - don't worry about the water rusting a hole in the car just make sure it clean prior to any paint. All in the prep....
Last edited by edp; 05/05/13 08:05 PM.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: edp]
#1429413
05/05/13 08:45 PM
05/05/13 08:45 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 221
Missouri
Challenger
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 221
Missouri
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Quote:
washing it after blasting is additional insurance, if your worried about flash rust that can occur just from humidity, if it does hit it with 80 grit on a DA and get rid of it.
After blasting there can be contaminant on/in the metal-it needs to be scrubbed off, dawn works well because it doesn't have abunch of other things in it, scents, etc.....& it leaves no residue if rinced properly.
I've painted many parts with epoxy after just a dawn scrub, no epoxy failures. Wax & grease removers won't get everything , the cleaner the part you start with the less W & G work necessary.
If you do a lot of DA sanding for paint removal that can force residues into the metal - don't worry about the water rusting a hole in the car just make sure it clean prior to any paint. All in the prep....
This. All my stuff gets cleaned with dawn soap and water. Get it cleaned, waterboure wax and grease remover and 2 coats of epoxy. Question for those of you that sodablast cars, How do you neutralize the soda before painting? The answer to that question is you wash it with water/soap and do it a couple of times. YES SOAP/WATER.
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Re: Primer Question / Getting the scamp blasted
[Re: 440mag]
#1429415
05/06/13 12:26 AM
05/06/13 12:26 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
demon
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
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If it was blasted with brand new clean media, it is ready to prime with epoxy, although I like to sand the surfaces to remove most of the texture that blasting leaves and any little flecks of paint etc that were not 100% removed and then use a final wipe. If recycled media was used you better use a wax and grease remover. I don't let anyone touch my sandblasted or bare metal parts. Always wear latex gloves or you will have rusty fingerprints show up years later under the paint. I've seen it.
Do not use self etching primer on blasted metal. The textured finish will retain the acid and cause problems later too. Same goes for metal prep. Never use metal prep acid on blasted metal. It is only to etch smooth metal.
I don't like tack tags very much either. They can cause fisheyes. If you insist on tacking it use a brand new Quality blue base/clear tack cloth and not one of the cheap ones.
Beautiful 72 Charger by the way! Love the 72 Rallyes!
Last edited by demon; 05/06/13 12:29 AM.
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