I have a 660 lift comp roller cam that I would like to use! I also have some crane ultra pro roller lifters! I have a guy that does heads and is good and reasonable! As far as I know our w2 heads are pretty much stock. There is a possiblily that there is 2.08 intake valves but we won't know untill we take them out and measure them correctly. How much should the heads be flowing to handle this cam and what size header, carburetor,ect? Also If I go with this big cam and have some pretty stealth heads the compression should be up there! I would like to have as much compression as possible without having a big dome. I hope in the neighborhood of a true 14:1. I would like to have lite pistons so it's easier on the rods! Would custom made flat tops be better or stick with a big ol dome? I am keeping the crank we have and going with different rods wether they are a good set of I beams or H beams. I plan on just buying some harland sharp 1.5 rockers. I am going to have our M1 intake manifold port matched to the heads and flowed! I am really convinced on the progearm timing chain from hughes engines and If I run the roller cam I'll have hughes make me some custom made push rods that the cam needs. If anyone else thinks I need to know or add anything else let me know. I'll post cam specs on here for the roller cam if anyone is interested in seeing them! I very much appreciate the help you guys have been giving me and I know we have talked about abunch of different stuff but it's time to put stuff into action here! Calling machine shop either today or tomorrow and I've already talked to the head guy breifly but will talk more friday! I am making parts list and going to start ordering asap! To let everyone know the goal is to be well into the 10's no excuses and no exceptions for anything else..

A couple of things here... the heads.. you have .660
lift so the heads need to have a peak flow in the
.500 lift range.. thats pretty easy with a W-2.. but
it doesnt say what the flow is... a set of W-2 can have
a flow of 300 cfm pretty easy.. you need to show all
the specs on the cam so we get a idea of the duration
anf see what it will turn in the rpm range... you
will be happier with a H beam rod... I have torn
a I-beam in half before and when I changed over to
the H-beams I havent had any problems... flat top
pistons have a much better flame front.. it doesnt
have to burn around corners or humps.... have you
sat down to figure out your goals with the car...
thats a MUST... then figure out the budget for the
car then the budget for the engine..... its cheaper
and easier to make the car lighter than it is to make
more HP, plus its easier on parts

How much does the Valiant weigh? This will tell you how much power you need to run 10's. My Dart weighs 2815 race ready and has ran 9.95 @ 133
with a lot less engine than you're talking about building. Let's see those cam specs.

Buy the 1.6 ratio rockers, not the 1.5 Same price so get the increased lift and effective duration

if that cam with those lifters can be made to work with your heads you have a great head start! then you can focus on making the bottom end to support the power. you should have no problem running 10's unless you have a 3800 pound car.

stuff to think about for the bottom end, in addition to the H-beams

4-bolt mains

crank work, maybe even a MP stroker crank. or better yet, if you are rich lol:
http://www.winbergcrankshafts.com/pdf/products/dodgesmallblockfinished.pdf

oil system: exernal system, keep that top end oiled and cool. high lift makes valve springs work hard get real hot, they can lose their temper if they dont stay cool enough

block filling - totally clean block and passages, then you can strengthen the lower end with a partial fill if you go past 600hp it's probably best

it's a lot of money for some of that stuff. if you are not rich i'd build the most solid bottom end you can, dont skimp on the oiling and limit your HP/RPM's, 4 bolt mains if possible.

It's only going to be a 340 bored like 30 over with a stock stroke. This engine will not be a stroker because if I do that it will over power the car for sure! The car is 2800 lbs all said and done with driver!

I am not sure if we will be able to get the clearances with 1.6 rockers?

Cam Specs
Part number: 20-000-9
cam grind number: CRS 313-6/322-3 R8
cam serial number: N 3620
valve adjustment .026 intake and 0.28 exhuast
Gross valve lift: .660 intake and .630 exhuast
with 1.5 rocker ratio
Duration at .020 tappet lift 313 intake and 322 exhuast
valve timing at .050 lift open 30 BTDC and close 66 ABDC and 70 BBDC open and 34 ATDC
specs with cam installed at 108 intake center line
Duration at .050 276 intake and 284 exhuast
lobe lift: .440 intake and .420 exhuast
cam ground with lobe seperation of 108
rpm range from 4500-7500
Like I said the goal is to go in the 10's and I'll spend what ever it takes to get there.

With what you have and a car of 2800# you can get 10s
easy

So what does the cam tell you? What should heads flow, rpm, headers, carb,ect be?

I would never go over 12.5:1 compression with a 10 bolt head. I was told a long time ago (by a very wise Herb McCandless) that I would benefit more from a lightweight rotating assembly than I would by trying to add compression over 12:1. Different story with an 18 bolt head and R3 block.

I never blew a head gasket on my old motors unless I went over 12 to 1 CR. Cometic multi layer and copper fire ring head gaskets have made it easier to run high compression but they are both expensive. If I were you I would go with a small chamber,light weight flat top piston and H beam rod,keep the bob weight as light as possible. Make sure you debur all the sharp edges on the pistons and chambers with a dremel tool and polish after. Try to set Squish Qwentch as close to .040 as possible. You can do this by zero decking the piston and block and running an .039 head gasket. Detonation is your enemy here with 2 bolt mains, and high horsepower any detonation is going to cause cap walk. I have been running small blocks for over 40 yrs and most of the ones that I split in half were due to not paying attention to detonation. Sorry to be so long but just trying to pass on what I have found out by a lot of

close to my build but im going 408 stroker ill have to watch this and see how close we are in the end

As Mike said, at your weight, it should be quite easy to run a 10 second pass. You would be able to run high tens in your car with a factory headed 360, so a W2 headed 340 should do it no problem.
Are you W2's the Econo head with the open chamber? I wouldn't get too caught up with running monster compression, for your goals it is totally unnecessary. As has already been suggested, around 12:1 should be enough. On a 340 with an open chamber head, a domed piston is going to be necessary.
The reality is, you could reach your goals with the parts you have already, you'll drop $5-10K in engine upgrades etc before you know it.

Yes I have the w2 econo heads and I guess if we only need 12:1 compression would could probaly get away with running pump gas! I talked with my machine shop guy last night and he said he has some brand new alumium rods he want's to sell for 300 bucks! I guess the brand of the rod is called brooks I think? I found out how much it's going to cost to get the block bored out with a torque plate and got some prices on other stuff! I am talking with the guy thats doing the heads tonight!

You can't run pump gas with 12:1 compression and an iron head.

X2.....and I'd be concerned about your engine builder's intentions for recommending aluminum rods!

I wouldn't bother with aluminum rods in your motor. Remember, aluminum rods have a shorter lifespan than steel rods. Just buy a set of Eagle or Scat h-beams and they'll last the life of the motor.