Posted By: Sb Valiant
Help Me Put This Engine Together Please!!! - 01/17/13 05:16 PM
I have a 660 lift comp roller cam that I would like to use! I also have some crane ultra pro roller lifters! I have a guy that does heads and is good and reasonable! As far as I know our w2 heads are pretty much stock. There is a possiblily that there is 2.08 intake valves but we won't know untill we take them out and measure them correctly. How much should the heads be flowing to handle this cam and what size header, carburetor,ect? Also If I go with this big cam and have some pretty stealth heads the compression should be up there! I would like to have as much compression as possible without having a big dome. I hope in the neighborhood of a true 14:1. I would like to have lite pistons so it's easier on the rods! Would custom made flat tops be better or stick with a big ol dome? I am keeping the crank we have and going with different rods wether they are a good set of I beams or H beams. I plan on just buying some harland sharp 1.5 rockers. I am going to have our M1 intake manifold port matched to the heads and flowed! I am really convinced on the progearm timing chain from hughes engines and If I run the roller cam I'll have hughes make me some custom made push rods that the cam needs. If anyone else thinks I need to know or add anything else let me know. I'll post cam specs on here for the roller cam if anyone is interested in seeing them! I very much appreciate the help you guys have been giving me 
and I know we have talked about abunch of different stuff but it's time to put stuff into action here! Calling machine shop either today or tomorrow and I've already talked to the head guy breifly but will talk more friday! I am making parts list and going to start ordering asap! To let everyone know the goal is to be well into the 10's no excuses and no exceptions for anything else..
and I know we have talked about abunch of different stuff but it's time to put stuff into action here! Calling machine shop either today or tomorrow and I've already talked to the head guy breifly but will talk more friday! I am making parts list and going to start ordering asap! To let everyone know the goal is to be well into the 10's no excuses and no exceptions for anything else..
Same price so get the increased lift and effective duration 
I never blew a head gasket on my old motors unless I went over 12 to 1 CR. Cometic multi layer and copper fire ring head gaskets have made it easier to run high compression but they are both expensive. If I were you I would go with a small chamber,light weight flat top piston and H beam rod,keep the bob weight as light as possible. Make sure you debur all the sharp edges on the pistons and chambers with a dremel tool and polish after. Try to set Squish Qwentch as close to .040 as possible. You can do this by zero decking the piston and block and running an .039 head gasket. Detonation is your enemy here with 2 bolt mains, and high horsepower any detonation is going to cause cap walk. I have been running small blocks for over 40 yrs and most of the ones that I split in half were due to not paying attention to detonation. Sorry to be so long but just trying to pass on what I have found out by a lot of 
Sb Valiant Please don't take this wrong and stop comming here for advice. Here is what I have learned from reading and asking questions on Moparts on how to build a motor. You can throw 50% of the post away because thats how many that have no clue how to build their own junk or their junk is still in pieces.You can throw 20 percent away because those guys have way to much money and you can never get the espensive parts they want you to get.Then about 15% are great guys and can answer tech questions and will steer you in the right direction. Then the last 15% are people that could care less.They just add fluff and crap from what they have read.These people have no car or a motor but someday they are going to build a monster.
Build a motor that you can put 200 pass's a year then store it and do it again the next year. Mabe the third year tip it upside down and check the bearings. If you did everything right you put the pan back on and your ready for the next season.THE BIGGEST THING OF ALL!! Make sure your engine shop is the best one you have in the area and you can see the motors that have been built by him.Every engine builder is only as good as the last one he built.Never let him steer you to what he has to sell you for your motor.Most likely its parts he was traded for labor and he has no clue if they good or junk.The guy the does heads cheap? Thats where you make the HP.If he does not port heads for a profession leave the heads alone and do a good 3 angle valve grind and make sure the push rods are not hitting anywhere and the heads are flat.Don't worry about flow numbers.Some head porters can make any head flow the number you want even if it not true and plus you can take the same head to anouther shop with a flow machine and get a differant flow number. All I can say is a crap port job will kill you.