XRP feather weight fuel hose. This stuff can be pricey depending on how much footage is needed. Half the weight of braided stainless hose and a lot more handsome to the eyes.

Oh yeah, by the way. Aluminum ignition key is best alone,keep the rest of your keys elsewhere when racing.LOL.
Serious, they do make aluminum ignition/door lock keys.

Don't forget after they throw you out you will have to add about 150lbs back.
Front cage, shields and diaper as well as a cert on the chassis.
But in till then Have Fun!

Yeah, I went Braile also a few months back saved 40-1/2 pounds. Though the weight was removed from the rear where I've had the 55 lbs truck battery since the American revolution, the car still left the same. I am working to improve my 60' though.

Lots of good weight loss ideas.
Have you considered any AERO inprovements.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
One I have seen is block off your grill area
with a thin sheet off lexan use the outer headlight bezel and grill trim screw holes to atatch it cleanly.
Drip rail shave would loose weight and decrease
drag.
Surface mount your front windscreen like old school nascar.
A chin spoiler is fairly light and they help significantly.
Aero or lack of it is a major loss. ANYTHING to decrease drag WILL increase your trap speed.
The way I see this thread is your weight loss will significantly help to 60' and to 60 MPH but after 60 MPH
aero is well a HUGE DRAG. Pun intended.
EXAMPLE
"Speed Increases Drag
Since drag depends on velocity squared, driving at 70 mph results in about four times as much drag as driving at 35 mph. Merely increasing speed from 55 mph to 65 mph increases drag by about 40 percent, resulting in a 10 to 15 percent increase in fuel consumption."from online source
I have read this thread completly and was inspired to add something positive to assist you in your endevor. GOOD LUCK

Dezduster.
Yes, I have applied some aero tricks to the car except the grille area because of cooling effects.
Underneath I have painted mostly everything with slick paint. I've also made air dams that seal the rear bumper to the chassis in which 65' Dodges have nothing there but a parachute effect. The bumper drops down below the chassis and is creates a shovel into the traveling air underneath there.
There are other places on the chassis where it can use aluminum dams to decrease the drag. I am also planning on an engine dam/diaper plate that comes on and off for racing. I still drive on the street. Thanks for the ideas, it's still a work in progress.

Hardtop models are usually stylishly and aerodynamically slippery, but with a little more weight thrown in for the structural integrity supports.....
Where as the post door Sedans are usually square and light by nature but with quite a few hot spots as far as un-aerodynamic chambers or dead corners both on the main body and/or underneath.
Creating aluminum foils/dams that divert streams of air away or around these pockets will aid in air management and keep the weight down. There's a few air management issues to be dealt with underneath most cars.

As far as my front grille area, I've foiled it with aluminum to completely direct all incoming air through the radiator.
Here's my aluminum grille cross support sitting next to the hollowed stock support in the very beginning leading up to my home made foils.
Stock one weighed 3-3/4 lbs, mine....1-1/2 lbs. Saved 2-1/4 lbs and no $$ other than some extra aluminum lying around.

Here's the cross support on the car.
Directly behind this aluminum support is a void that can be plainly seen and acted as an air funnel leading directly under the hood..... No good as far as aerodynamics. So I created another part to close that gap and side dams that are in place of the inner deleted headlamps and the car ran cooler with no drag under the hood since it has a foil connected underneath the leading edge of the hood. The grille face area still stays open during normal driving and activity at the track.

Hey Lee....I meant to tell you the last time we talked that in that article about you in the Mopar Mag quite a while ago showing your artwork there was a pic of your '65 and a caption that read something about you guys street racing and that your car was a 12 second car....I remember thinking that either this guy's car is a turd and must not win many races or he's like most street racers and is lying about what it really runs...After meeting you and reading this thread, I think I know which one is the case!!! LOL

YEAH! it still goes 12's man. how fast can a street car be?
It's STOCK, don't you see?
LOL.

Just a little to keep this active! Can anyone tell me the weight diff. between a 64 Dodge front bumper and a glass one?

A lot, that front bumper and brakets replaced with fiberglass & aluminum brakets, That and a fiberglass hood I would say are the best bang for the buck

Give me a guess..50#??

Or more the hood is 57# after I guted it and the bumber wit brakets I think is more than the hood. look close and you can see my SS springs in action. Car 2840# ready to race + 240 for the fat guy + 3080#

Thanks,Bud!