Real world weight loss program and it` cost..........

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Thumper, does that thing have a vinyl top?

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the car or his head??

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I changed the steel trunk lid for a glass pin on.
With the loss of the lid, latch, hinges and springs, it was around 45#. Wilwoods took 28# off, over the KH 2 pot discs and calipers.
A lot of the weight on the exhaust is the mufflers.
Mick

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I still have a "gutted" latched deck lid and the fairly gutted rear bumper brackets w/the heavy steel bumper but figure I`d start at the ft. and go from there since rear wt. is good.........

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If you're trying to go faster, have you considered a tunnel ram?

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A while back but that added $$$ could be better spent on lighter parts plus I want everything under the hood and that just adds nose weight.

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Adobe is doing something right.... his truck is 1100# lighter than mine - and they both left the factory the same weight.

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No kidding I was thinking the same thing............I just may do the same and I`m sure I can do an even better job on the dash wiring. This is gonna be fun..............

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Remember Grasshopper!
Butch and my Eleanor ?

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Oh yes ass-hopper.....I remember well.............that man is still high from Vietnam............ I see how the next 50lbs. are gonna be tough............

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There's about an extra 80-90# of "dead-weight" in the drivers seat of my Duster since I booted my son out of the driving duties.

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Now that was funny

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This door has 1/8 lexan and rolls up using the stock mechanism,its a sedan with the wind wing removed, works pretty well ,No money ,a few cutting disks and a few bandaids and a lot of time to waste.

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Now THAT`S gettin it done there........ I`m torn on lexan still because of scratches and my heap does spend time sitting outside so still about that but the dash and supporting metal`s got to be removed. Thankxxx guys and good work.

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This door has 1/8 lexan and rolls up using the stock mechanism,its a sedan with the wind wing removed, works pretty well ,No money ,a few cutting disks and a few bandaids and a lot of time to waste.

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Mines got the vents but they're Lexan. Strap moves the windows. Door handle bracket is 1/2"x.060" aluminum with a piece of 3/8" fuel line tubing welded to the handle mechanism to stiffen it up.
Doug

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All done

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Again, great work............. I wish I had a full framed door like yours but I`ll make mine work. I just ditched the regular door handle and I`ve seen guys re-locate it up top and use flat stock alum. as the new handle which I think I may have to do...........

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Percy's scratch resistant Lexan. I've had it for years and always clean with soft towels and Lexan plastic cleaner. Looks like glass. You can save as much 35 pounds with the Lexan. Front windshield can yield you another 11 or so pounds.

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Do they make pre-cut glass or did you cut it yourself also, I`m ready to ditch the windshield and all side glass so that should help a lot............

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Thumper. Ship your car to the big Apple and enroll it in my jack-o-Lee's health spa. We'll have that pup floating like a kite in Central Park. LOL.

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No wipers here either and I planned on leaving the rear glass in place but everything else that I can remove, will be eleminated.

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Here is some of Ron Silva's lightening efforts on his old Valiant.

Here is a bumper bracket.

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what brakes are you running? alot of weight there in the stock stuff

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Wilwoods up ft. and stock drums in the rear. Ron`s fine just got a bit riled when some questioned him and who knows what else about the 500 incher he was building.........

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Head to toe.

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I want one...........how much? seriously...... I can appreciate what your saying Racealittle but I`ve had this car since 93 and it`s come a long way and I`m nowhere near done and want my 9.50`s then MAYBE I`ll cage it but it`s a street car that I race once in a while and I turned it into what it is and plan on keeping it that way. Now, if I could find a caged certed roller than maybe but even being offered $20,000 for my car I said no cos I can`t build one for that...............peace!

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Dominic, do not forget the NHRA rule about stock firewall and floorboards, other than wheel tubs. If you add aluminum floor and or firewall the car must have a full cage Forget what I just said, you've already ran way under 9.99 witha roll bar so why would they make you get a cage with aluminum floors and firewall
BTW, it sounds to me like you need more work to do to keep you busy

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Cab, I`m not doing much more at this point except for ft. and side lexan and a bit of trimming on the steering colum and the dash unless I can get a glass or light weight dash............. Tired of going slow.........

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Had it spun like 8 years back. I than made the copy over of the trimming, notching, tapped holes and all using a stock steel column. Saved about 3-1/2 lbs.
Material and spinning cost me 100.00 but I don't think he is in the same place anymore and the cost have probably gone up since.

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The main weight in the column is the shaft and stock wheel. I made the shaft from .090"x3/4" moly. I had to keep the stock wheel. I'm stuck on this "stock look".
Doug

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DVW. You have craft in your blood. Keep up the great work. Keep that B-body lightweight.

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That's the fun in building it. And yes the cast cluster is gone. You can't see all the holes in the brake pedal.
Doug

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Yes I have, and the Door strikers themselves are being cnc jet cut out of 7075 as we speak in Detroit. These strikers and their backing plates do not weigh much though. 3 lbs all together in stock form, so Alu's would only cut off 1 to 1-1/2 pounds at the most.
Where the holy grail is are the door hinges themselves. Mine were sold to me before they even made it to market and now they're asking like $700.00 a pair. They save as much as 8 lbs between two doors.

All of these confessions that have pawed out about the car was only because the CIA made me do it? Freedom of information act I guess. LOL.

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Now I know I found someone than me............ It was great talking to ya Lee and you inspired my looney side and make me realize I`m not alone. I just removed the windshield and am gettin ready to remove the dash..........Fun, fun, fun............

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Before:



After: Saved 22 pounds and now my pedal ratio is 6:1, just need a column drop to button it up.

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Nice, I`ll be there soon........

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I went from 11 X 2 rear drums to Wilwoods with the parking brake and lost 16 pounds. I did something similar to ron on the front bumper brackets and lost 5.6 pounds. I lost over 4 pounds just by going to an aluminum master cylinder.

Ron had his 500" small block for sale the last time I had contact with him, nice guy .

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Are those holding up glass or steel bumpers on your dart?

Cool thread Dom!

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Well, one more long cold(38 degrees)night

Wow what you have to wear your winter skirt? 40 degrees cold haha!!

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LOL.

Best kept even from friends. Makes for some water cooler gossip.
Nothing special.

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Figured as much. It`s all good and your car looks awesome and is top notch I`m sure.

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I like the hood hinges. Any idea on how weight you saved going with the aluminum floor,trunk and firewall? What are you running for bumpers and brackets? Is the windshield Lexan,if so how thick?
Doug

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Big,

It was a very nose heavy b motor A body/727...no sway bar, worn shocks, the weight on the back helped the 60'...ran this car in street trim with McCreary Dirt Track tires...20+ years ago.

I've added rear ballast (and net weight) to several cars and ET'd quicker...what's to get??

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"What's to get" is if it's not spinning the tires how can it go quicker by adding weight???? I've personally never experienced that... that sounds like a bandaid for needing to work on the front suspension....

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I'm with ya, Big!

Just a street driven 'work' car that ran pretty darn good, no way to get a full plant with those tires but it hooked really consistently, even on the street. Getting a mega torque big block a body to hook takes some work, I set the motor back with elephant ears to where the pass side VC would barely clear the firewall.

I do think in general the more nose heat the car, the more rear weight at the very rear helps get the suspension to react in that initial moment.

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I'm with ya, Big!

Just a street driven 'work' car that ran pretty darn good, no way to get a full plant with those tires but it hooked really consistently, even on the street. Getting a mega torque big block a body to hook takes some work, I set the motor back with elephant ears to where the pass side VC would barely clear the firewall.

I do think in general the more nose heavy the car, the more rear weight at the very rear helps get the suspension to react in that initial moment.

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Cool...

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Once all holes are carefully cut and sized, the precision balanced hub itself can be mounted at the same time the wheel is mounted onto the car thus sealing and hiding the tattle tail rivets. A little juggling is needed to pass the hubcap under and behind the air valve stem. This has to be with kid gloves because you do not want to damage the stem and or scratch the paint, thus revealing the alloy underneath.
What you present to the naked eye is the following painted STOCK STEEL wheel. Even many a Mopar guy have seen these and asked why I do not invest in a set of light weight wheels for quicker ET.
Well................
What's behind door #3

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Never happened but if it did, I would of lost as that thing went 9.20`s-30`s I believe.

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Oh yeah, by the way. Aluminum ignition key is best alone,keep the rest of your keys elsewhere when racing.LOL.
Serious, they do make aluminum ignition/door lock keys.

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I did get my new lightweight Braille battery yesterday.

It's physically 1/3 the size of my Optima, and a 22# savings.
The little slip inside stating they tested it showed 762 CCA. That'll work for MY rig.

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Which model # did you get? Do you think you could fit 2 of them in a standard size battery box?

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Don't forget after they throw you out you will have to add about 150lbs back.
Front cage, shields and diaper as well as a cert on the chassis.
But in till then Have Fun!

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It's always something.....

If I end up going to a full cage - I'll have it professionally installed out of ChroMo. The diaper will be a problem. I haven't needed a license for a long time. LOL

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Excuse my sarcasm. but there's no trick in deleting a whole hood. I would think that a cleverly gutted hood is more the flavor pill for your car, plus the absence of it would create such an aerodynamic drag that it would contradict the weight savings. I think it is illegal to run with out one in the door classes as well.

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7.8 HOOD

Optional. Carburetors must be covered by flash shield or scoop. Hood scoop may not extend more than 11-inches (27.9 cm) above height of hood surface. See General Regulations 1.4.

I'm not buying the drag part either. I won't be running over 200mph where that would be more of a concern. I'm more interested in getting better weight transfer so I can hook.

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If I remember correctly from 10 years back, a distant friends 64' Dodge 500 Polara Hardtop that we were putting on a slight diet had his steel front bumper coming in at 36 lbs alone. The brackets I honestly do not remember as he never kept detailed logs like I do and he let it go out the back door at the end.
My 65' front bumper came in at 27-1/2 lbs and I know that his was heavier because the 64's were slightly longer cars and a tad heavier than the 65's. I don't use Fiberglass but I would give a good guesstimate for a front bumper to be at 3-5 lbs alone.

The 64' bumper brackets were bulkier than the simple 65's. Slightly easier to make out of Aluminum, but there's a slight radius that needs to be respected so that the bumper fits like stock.

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64 front bumper 22.5lbs, rear bumper 24lbs. All brackets front and rear 26lbs. All 6 bumper brackets in carbon fiber 2lbs. AAR fiberglas hood, 21lbs, very nice hood. Aluminum pins and brackets, of coarse.
Doug

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Talking about Boyz and the Hoods. DVW, figured you would love this.

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I do!

You sir have mad skilzz


I'll continue to go back to my and

Please continue

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Just a few favors in return. I have bartered many things for welding, shop use, materials, and body work.
Yes, some thing like that could cost a good penny. I'm just a stickler for metals and keep friends.

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Talking about Alley cats, ThumperDart, how's it going with the Darts weightwatchers program?
I know that most of this is leaning towards the early B's, but I know it could also bleed over to some other bodies. I like cars that look heavy but may be the contrary with tricks. It worked on the street, even in 12 second cars.

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Man, been fighting this flu I picked up in Yuma only to find out 20 people have died so far and don`t want to be # 21 so mostly been in bed but feel pretty good today so back to wiring then dash lightning yada yada yada........... Look what the hell I started here............ This is a great post and I just got my Moroso alum. hood pins which all 5 weigh less than 1 steel pin so this is getting interesting for sure.

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Get well.
Be careful breathing any cutting dust or dust in general, it can spike your Flu back to square one. Now more than ever your breathing needs a breather, take it easy.
Yeah, a few companies not really well known make those Aluminum hood pins for circle track cars. I made mine at first and they worked for years. Much lighter than steel ones for sure.

Moroso fabricated aluminum transmission pans can knock off 3-5 lbs from the transmission underneath.
I replaced my deep cast aluminum pan with the fabricated sheet metal type and lost 4 Lbs.

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Thank you sir..........no cutting today just wiring up things and drillin a few holes..........

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Aluminum pins are available at Summit $10.99 pr in both 3/8" and 1/2".
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all18500/overview/

Doug

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That b them.........

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No, only because I have not been convinced that aluminum cable could carry the current needed to start the engine and keep all things going with the battery in the trunk.
ThumperDart has looked into some type of Copper coated 2 gauge aluminum cable that supposedly works, but I have not heard enough feedback to justify it.
The bulkhead connection was interestingly mentioned that could make a smaller/lighter gauge cable work.
Anyone want to add a comment to that?

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I'm using the Accel "Lightening Cable" and it works great with the trunk mount battery. I have also optimized my wiring size for every wire in my car. I am even using the thin jacketed wire as well. You would be surprised how many people could get by with 18 and 20 GA wires where most "race" car wiring kits provide 14 and 16 GA wiring for everything. I think I have 20 GA going to the rear (at least 14') to power the LED tail lights. Anyway, you definately have to think outside the box when looking for places to loose weight. And no, none of it comes cheaply after the big hitters are gone.

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408
Okay, I'm gonna look deeply into those Accel cables that you and others have mentioned.
My setup is a street/strip car and I still have headlights, Taillights, electric fan, MSD 6AL ignition, Aeromotive A-1000 electric fuel pump in the tank and that's about it.
408. Do you have your main hot lead battery cable connected at a bulkhead box on the firewall and going to the battery out back?
* And if so, does that cable continue after the bulk head as a second piece to the starter?
* What gauge is the main hot lead cable leading back to the battery?
I'm not an electrical kind of guy since the Third rail zapped me quite a few years back. LOL.

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2GA from the trunk to a power distribution lug on my ignition panel (about where the arm rest is on the pass side). I do have another 2GA cable that goes from there to the 250A starter solenoid and then from there to the starter. I know some people frown on this style of wiring a starter, but it has never let me down. Looks clean and was the low weight solution.

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I used 20 gauge which on some gauge tools read as .0375 which is similar to what the factory used on their 64' AFX cars.
You probably can not see it clearly on those black and white photos of mine, but just remember that once you introduce a bend or a edge to any flat stock sheet metal, it work hardens and becomes stronger. This is especially beneficial when working with thin gauge aluminum.
Besides that Grille cross brace, the vertical braces and stone guard underneath are also Aluminum. The hood latch/levers and other misc stuff are no longer needed because the hood pins take care of that.

Shaved a total of 14 lbs on the very front.

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Thanks, yeah like if the import guys needed to get rid of weight. LOL.

I'll look into this copper VS Aluminum and the gauge that it ends up being. I think like what 408 said on here 2A is probably what I would need if I go that route. I'd just like to keep my ignition solenoids/relays in their stock positions and look.
After all, this is a STOCK street car. LOL.

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I went w/a # 1 and it was a LOT lighter than the cobbled up welding junk I had and I`d rather be safe than sorry..........

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#1 from the Accel line up?

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No, just the old fashioned copper............I try to get as much as I can locally.

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Rear mounted Braile battery (21) LBS and welding cable.
The battery tray is Aluminum and mounted with long high strength carriage head bolts that go through the chassis. two of them are underneath the battery.

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Anymore Davey Jones locker secrets out there that need to be shared?
I know some of you are keen and lean with some new tricks.
I especially liked the downwards hood pin deal that the cat with the sleeper Turquoise 62' Savoy created.

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I`m going w/a plastic rear view mirror and found a guy locally w/1/8`th lexan for my windshield............wasn`t gonna go lexan but figured what the hell.....soon baby soon.

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Anymore Davey Jones locker secrets out there that need to be shared?
I know some of you are keen and lean with some new tricks.
I especially liked the downwards hood pin deal that the cat with the sleeper Turquoise 62' Savoy created.

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Your Lexan windshield should not be too hard to form since it has a rather modest contour. Just take your time and shut off the cell and it will all go well. You should shave at least 10 lbs from that glass alone.
Is the plastic rear mirror you're using look like your current one?
Those side door mirrors can weigh much as well. I kept mine so as to keep the heat away from giving me flack.
I've been busy lately with work, but I have a few ideas in the works and/or already implanted. When I get a moment, I'll post 'em.

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My dr. side mirror is plastic and no pass mirror and the rear view mirrior is metal and falls after a pass anyhow. Guess I`ll ditch the visore and paint a nice border on top for sun glare............this is fun and rewarding for sure.

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"Weight at the front of CG helps ET"
This came off wrong to me as well, but then I figured after reading it over a few times that what Wize was trying to actually say was: weight REMOVED from the front of CG would help ET.
I personally have looked into removing rotational weight from using different weight tires more than actual wheels. I found that my car cut ET by three tenths by switching to lighter tires, and then not much at all from lighter wheels.

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Three tenth`s from tires? That`s crazy................was that the only factor or change to the car back to back?

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dont know if this has been mentioned but if you have a full cage including the halo inside the roof then cut the supports that stiffen the roof for rollover puposes and strength, it is the boxed metal along the upper windshield which also supports the visors and rearwiew mirror and along the sides to the rear pillars that connect to the wheel wells it is heavy and time consuming to cut out without butchering it is worth a good amount of weight, the roof is heavy too it would be nice if somebody made a fiberglass roof or shaped one from aluminum, o ya also remove the center support it is where your dome light is attached it is glued so it takes some effort to remove. iv removed alot and i bet my car weighs somwhere of 2580-2700 one day ill buy scales and ill know, and if you have a lathe the scallup all the bolts and nuts you can, when i worked at Boeing factory i seen some neat bolts and nuts that are trimmed without losing there capability for example a nut would be 1/3 to 1/2 turnured down ( cutting the hex off )leaving just enuff to use a wrench or socket but still having all its thread, hope this didnt confuse anybody.

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Cool info. I just have a bar for now but will more than likely step up and cage it so I can keep going faster safely and legally but ONLY after a 9.59 @ 137+..........So maybe not such a good idea removing roof support at this time in case things go bad..............

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I agree with ThumperD on the roof supports. I'd leave them in if no Full Roll cage is present.
I also have given the center cross brace some thought where the Dome light goes and figured that even though it would probably do nothing much on a roll over, it helps a little to keep the roof in its intended shape. I did remove the Dome light assembly on mine which shaved 3/4 lb.
I only have a 12 point roll bar/Halo in my car, not a cage as some of my well informed friends have indicated in the past.
Roll cage and Roll bar are two siblings of a different Father, one being Big Brother, the other being the brat kid.
In a fantasy no expense sheik type of built, I would some how have the front longitudes, K-member, fender aprons, radiator cross brace, firewall, fenders, Bumpers, hood and doors all made out of Aluminum. This would all then be bolted and super Hi-tech glued to the main body, B pillars with roof which would be made out of Titanium and the rear quarters and Bumper out of cold roll steel. In other words, the weight increases in the direction of the rear of the car.
Talk about a CG Lightweight masterpiece. Talk about wishful thinking. LOL.

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Talk about wads of greenbacks.............

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Thanks for the inspiration!

I have lots and lots more to do, but here's a start.

I went to a Braille 17# battery and replaced the factory mounting system/battery box and also my mounting brackets for both the coil and MSD. I know this probably doesn't LOOK very light, but it saved 31# off the very nose of the truck. I opted to leave it basically in the factory location rather than add 20# worth of battery cable and battery disconnect switch to get it all to the back of the truck.

To me it looks like something out of a 1940's WWII plane. Yes, all aluminum - and lightweight!



It's a good thing the MSD is in the pic for scale - no, that is not a GIANT MSD box.
The new mount is painted black and simply disappears from view.
Yes, that's the coil tucked in there as well.



This thread is awesome for good ideas!
I'm gonna go fab some other lightweight stuff up!

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Lookin good............ Been helping a friend at his upholstery shop this week so Thump`s been on hold but tonight I got most of the wiring done and got my 1/8th in. lexan for the rear windows and decided to go with a 3/16th`s windshield which I will make a template for then have this cool chassis guy Scott cut it out for me and clean up the edges which will save me some needed time. Something told me to get a new throttle cable and good thing cos mine was badly frayed and may not of even made it around the block or worse yet broke at the track. Focusing on all of this tedious weight removal stuff makes me take a look at my WHOLE car now like never before..............

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Me thinks that the SWAT bashes to your noodle have affected your abilty to focus, on any thing else than going fast
Hope your well now

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I hear that a lot and since it was 31 to 1 and a battle I couldn`t win, I now take my frustrations out on my car..........

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Looking at your car with its design in mind, The A-pillars are the first line of defense and strength on a Hardtop aside from being the frame for the front windshield. The structural braces that run along the side and the cross dome light brace act as longitude support or spinal cord as they connect to your C-pillars where the roof line swoops down. All that area of the side windows (without a B-pillar)is just a big void where strength is non existent and could be at question when a car launches hard.

Contrary while looking at the quarter panel area on a Post Sedan, it pretty much is like a triangle of strength, with the Post door acting as a silent partner sought of speak.
But when a Hardtop comes into the discussion, it is an open horizontal V shape that is strengthen with the braces in the C-pillar and quarter window inner panels just behind the front of the quarters. The cross brace just behind the back seat gives the whole package some side load assist. The doors themselves are just a hanging panel that pretty much does nothing. The dome light cross brace is not too much of a concern but it helps the roof. If anything, I would go there with the Dremel tool.
Now if you cage the whole package, even with Chrome-moly, it pretty much puts back the same weight or more just to stiffen the car back to normal and make it safe. The cage in that case of course, stiffens the car, but then it is leaning towards becoming a chassis car.
I think that 30-40 pounds could be found on the front end still. You probably will not go with Carbon fenders or glass, but maybe some hard thinking will invent and desent the weight in another way.

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Guess I`ll leave it alone then as safety is still a small concern and I`m jonesin to weigh it then go for a well overdue street thrashing.........

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all of this weight loss talk I had a name just come to me.. Im not puttin you down or givin you shizz but I thought it was just funny
DUMPERTHART

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No offense taken at all and it sounds like I am a warrior fighting along side Mel Gibson in Braveheart..........

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Are there any other "fast street cars" down there now besides yours I will coming that way soon, maybe we can go have some fun in a old mans car before it changes hands, bring back the ghost that use to be

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Let me know and if I`m around we`ll do something for sure. There`s an 8-second mustang,and little Donnie who has 8-second Chevys so I`m the slo guy

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I have no words...

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I DO...........You`re a nut man and I don`t mean that in a bad way...........

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In talking about brakes,

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Brakes?? you wanna take some weight out with brakes? try a full 50lbs over stock right here, plus QA 1 bottom arms and strut bars and dillenger tie rods

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Just received this little gem from the milling machine desk of Doctor Diff. We schemed on this idea for a minute with the emphasis of ridding some rotational weight off the front hub assemblies and still retaining the original drums. I opted for the 3" studs instead of 2" studs as to not get the Tech police on my case. I have not signed the non-weight proliferation act.
The stock steel hub with 3" studs, both front and rear races installed with NO front and rear bearings weighed in at 6-1/4 Lbs.
The beefy forged Aluminum prototypes with 3" studs, both front and rear races installed and NO bearings weighed in at 3-1/2 Lbs. Saves 2-3/4 Lbs on each side. Keep in mind though, that this weight savings is not on the outer reaches of this rotating mass, but still a reduction. These are the first pairs produced and Doctor Diff suggested to me a shrink Doctor. LOL.

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id like to see you build a F.A.S.T. car

or does it not pay as well as what you are doing now

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RMCHRGR, I agree with you notion of hot rodding and do it yourselfisum but for me Im in an industry that allows me no machine shop access I work in civil concruction in outback Queensland, away from home for 21 days at a time, I fly out to work and fly home for 6 days then Im gone again. in that time my wife and children get my full attention. for me I just buy pre-made enginuity for my hobby, no time to create it. however I do admire your dedication to this but you & I will never be able to create superior front end components to this level or quality by doing it yourself, some things in this hobby just have to be brought out of a catalog.

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have you removed everything related to the hoodlatch? i can honestly say that i dont have a clue how much wheight

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Here are the lightweight attaching brackets with lightweight bolts.
The brackets were hand formed from flat stock 3003 aluminum which can be formed rather easy.

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There is a Black Primer Nova waiting for you if you want sum?
Track only! Street Racing is Illegal.
Motor on motor?

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To make this interesting and not seem like an @$&hole, lets just say it's lighter than it was bone stock at 3670 Lbs.
Aside from all the other fine cars on here and specifically pertaining to my car, if this thread is read to the T-throughout and then some of the outside usual tricks that are part of lightweight programs applied to what I've already mentioned here, then just maybe, just maybe the magic number will be picked.

Lets make this fun, this is an all metal B-body street car.

Pick a number.

Later, I'll mention what the car truly weighed last Summer with me, a rollbar and a full tank of gas ready to drive back home along with what it should weigh once I finish some other Skunk work tricks.
Pardon my arrogance, it's part of the old racing heritage.

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I`ll shoot...............3050 lbs............

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Keep trying guys.
Thumperdart, see what you started.

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Been known to start stuff but this is WAY more productive..............lovin carbon fiber...........

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I just got off the bathroom scale and weigh in at 175 Lbs.
My car has yet to find an accurate scale at the track or a good truck stop. There's one here in Queens that I'll have to visit this coming Spring. But keep 'em coming.
Whats up Tom.

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Truck scales are a last resort in my opinion. Take this gentleman up on using his scales and find out EXACTLY what it weighs w/you on board as well as cross and fore and aft numbers.

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No, I guess not. Last time was over at Maple groves Mopar Action event.
Englishtown's scale is a joke from what I've experienced there. I'd be better off with four Bathroom scales. LOL.
When it gets warmer, you are invited to the Area 51 garage with those scales. The truck weight stop is located just off the side of the Whitestone Expressway on the Linden place exit in Flushing. A&R Lobosco is the name. They seem to be legit and precise.

Okay Tom, you've made your guess, ThumperDart, you've made yours, lets see who else may come either close or on the nail on the weight of my car with a full tank of gas and WITHOUT me in it. The winner gets a cool surprise in the mail.
This is fun.

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Without you then I`ll say 2870......

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Wow ThumperDart, you went to the block with your efforts. 170 Lbs? That's a good chunk off. What did you do?

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I think it may be more but won`t know till I scale it hopefully next week...........you`ve helped my insanity more than you know and I`m not done yet. Next are a pair of ft. race Hoosier tires then scale time. Hope to be 1/8th mile racing in two weeks...........

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You're surely lighter and probably quicker now, but it all has to hook and that is why the rear weight is so important in your set up.
Keep an eye on the doors forward objective.

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Most of my removal has been from my rear windows foreward other than my second 40 lb. batt I removed and I can add fuel hopefully to compensate for that IF needed. If it still hooks and books then rear bumper and deck lid will go next..............done goin slow and I WILL meet my goal, I usually do but it`s never easy or cheap.

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Not to boast because I searched thick and thin, but a friend came onto these by chance and gave notice. I had to mimic a United Nations meeting with the owner just to keep faith that I would get them eventually. He was very patient indeed.
What the A-bodies have over some of these cars is the fact that glass part replicas of the Factory BO29 and L023's are available on the open market.
The E-bodies can take a hint from the acid bath child's of the 70's Pro stock movement.

What I will boast about is the ultra rare fender horse stand I made out of found wood on the streets. It holds almost any Mopar fender sturdy enough to do body work massaging. One of one made. LOL.

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I`m a long way from home...............

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There's a lot of weight to be found and ground off in body putty. The wrong body worker can put more than his share of unnecessary amount of putty which adds up in weight. The art of body massaging with hammers and dials can keep off the silly putty and if need be, ultra lightweight putty can be applied and sanded down to near nothing for a smooth and light weight surface. Even paints can add up if too much applied.

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Now you tell me. I hate to guess the weight of the paint on mine. My buddy told me I should have left it like this.
Doug

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I'm sure that because of the clean body panels you have, that it was not bad at all as far as weight applied is concerned.
I've seen areas even on my car way back that were filled and sanded lightly instead of hammering the imperfections all out and using a minimum of putty. Even an expert body worker will apply a lot at first and then end up sanding it almost completely off with only the minute low areas having a spec of it on. This is one of the reasons that labor is so costly with good body workers.
Trust me, I have my man sweating bullets over any unnecessary putty on those fenders.LOL.

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Here's preclean

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I can't wait for ThumperDart's revealing of his new found or loss weight.

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If I'm following you right, you have tried to make a carbon hood from your original fiberglass one as a template?
I just saw a purple hood like yours with the same 6 barrel scoop on this board for sale. I thought it was your old one up for sale.
in any case, good luck with what ever you end with.
On some occasions, I've failed at things and had to start all over. My hood gave me grey hairs when I first started on that.

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I`m confusing sometimes, sorry................I had a 12 lb. glass hood made and tried the ol skool pro stock scoop and after a day and a half I`m done trying to make that work. So, I may just use the old 6 pack scoop or buy a new one since it is partly up in my tape line from the roof to the hood and my afr`s were dead solid at 12.8 @ wot IF that even matters.............My temperment sucks sometimes and get real frustrated when I can`t master something faster..............

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I lost a little over 50% of the weight on mine. I would say that you would stand to shave a good 11-12 pounds with the Lexan.
Look if Percy's speed glass has molded ones in stock of if they can do it for you on a call in basis. Those A-bodies are very popular. It's well worth it in the end. You would also have to apply a good sealant all along the windshield brim to make sure it all seals against leaks.

Good luck.

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I`ll call em and see but if it`s only 10-12 lbs, I may just pass...........we`ll see. Hopefully I will finish the hood today and paint it and move on to the alum. bolts that a guy can get me here locally................

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Called Pearcys and it`s $480.00 to shed maybe 12-14 lbs. on the windshield so we`ll see still have other stuff to mess with.

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You are using 6AL4V grade right?

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ThumperD
Are you getting old on us LOL. Who needs comfort and quiet when there are ET's to gain.
In contrary, When I went for an invited warm up trek around the pits at Michigan's US 131 in Dave Dutek's 69' Hemi RR, the interior seemed suspiciously stock. I felt like a Detective who was honing in on the suspect some where in there. LOL. My nights on the streets have trained my eyes and ears to certain curtain calls.
But all kiddin' aside, we all have to sit in our own bath water, so ultimately it should be made to your liking. Some like it Hot, some prefer warm, and some have no choice but cold. Mine is cold because I have not paid the heating bill. LOL.

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Been old my friend and the second layer does make a difference mostly visually but at ozs. based on the speaker material I`m using and should be done w/it today. I found a short in my steering colum that engages the starter in the RUN position......... and when I pull on the wires it quits so, back out w/it to possible re wire it..... Never ends. Hoods mostly done except for maybe two zeus fastners across the ft. if needed.