I believe my Rimblow switch has finally crapped out. How might I simulate an activated switch? In other words, how do I get the horn to blow without using the Rimblow switch?

There is a backstory here that's too long to tell, so I don't need to know how to test the switch necessarily. I just need the horn to blow. Can I connect a 12V lead to the spade at the column, or what?

Ground the wire under the center button.Ive foxed a few by taking the wheel off and cleaning the contact under the wheel.They have a tendency to get a ridge in them.With the wheel off you can see the contact on the wheel and the pieve that sticks up to contact it.First thing I would do is check the relay and the horns.Relay is easy.Has to have power and then gets a ground when you blow the horn.Power then should be at horns.You can test the horn by removing it and using the batt to activate it.Rocky

seperate the dangling electrical connector under the column and in the bulkhead half of the connector ground the horn wire (might be black but check) & see if the horn sounds. this'll tell you if the problem is in the steering wheel (likely as said) or upstream (check/clean the bulkhead 1st) then the horn relay. I would jump 12V to the horns and jump their cases' to batt neg to ground them but not likely both horns went out at the same time and horns are pretty reliable but it would be an easy first check

RR true about both quiting at the same time.But my 65 after it sits all winter at times both will quit.The I just tap them with a screwdriver handle a few times and they work.Thing is they are 40 years old and get used very little when I drive the car.Rocky