Re: To hone or not....
[Re: 440newport]
#1285943
08/15/12 11:01 PM
08/15/12 11:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'd hone it with the right grit flexhone for moly rings (320 grit iirc). I'd get a set of file fit plasma moly rings. break one of your old rings in two & grind an even level hook on one end & use that to clean the ring grooves. CAREFULLY ridge ream the block pulling the cutter toward you as you go around the cyl & check OFTEN to not cut past flush at any point in the circumference EDIT read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/16/12 12:20 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: To hone or not....
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1285948
08/16/12 02:12 PM
08/16/12 02:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,588
St. John's Newfoundland
440newport
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,588
St. John's Newfoundland
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Quote:
What was the condition of the engine when you took it apart? Ever do a compression or leak down?
No, it ran fine but was a bit smokey out of one tail pipe. A couple of cylinders were sucking oil from the intake gasket it looks like.
There is no ridge in the bores.
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Re: To hone or not....
[Re: 440newport]
#1285950
08/16/12 03:27 PM
08/16/12 03:27 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,951
northwest USA
NANKET
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,951
northwest USA
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Quote:
Quote:
What was the condition of the engine when you took it apart? Ever do a compression or leak down?
No, it ran fine but was a bit smokey out of one tail pipe. A couple of cylinders were sucking oil from the intake gasket it looks like.
There is no ridge in the bores.
If you have no ridge and crosshatch is visible, then run it. Rule is when dingleball honing then don't use moly rings, have a shop hone it for moly ring use.
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Re: To hone or not....
[Re: dogdays]
#1285954
08/17/12 03:45 PM
08/17/12 03:45 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
Way too coarse? They're available in a number of abrasives up to 800 grit.
R.
I have a 320 grit flex-ball hone. I've done 3 engines with it now, and no issues at all with ring seal. they don't burn oil or smoke at all. all 3 engines were "refreshes" where they were taken apart to a bare block, the bores had very minimal wear, so the whole block was cleaned up, I honed the cylinders with the "dingleball" hone, had the machine shop balance the rotating assembly (new rods/pistons) and I assembled the motor.
if a block is bored over at all by a shop, then yes, I would have them also do the hone job afterwards (isn't that included with the over-bore job?) but if you have a block with bores in great shape showing minimal to no wear, then why CAN'T you use the flexball hone? you're not trying to re-shape the bore, you're just trying to scuff up the walls and give it some "tooth" for the new rings to seat against.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: To hone or not....
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1285955
08/17/12 08:38 PM
08/17/12 08:38 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,185
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,185
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Way too coarse? They're available in a number of abrasives up to 800 grit.
R.
I have a 320 grit flex-ball hone. I've done 3 engines with it now, and no issues at all with ring seal. they don't burn oil or smoke at all. all 3 engines were "refreshes" where they were taken apart to a bare block, the bores had very minimal wear, so the whole block was cleaned up, I honed the cylinders with the "dingleball" hone, had the machine shop balance the rotating assembly (new rods/pistons) and I assembled the motor.
if a block is bored over at all by a shop, then yes, I would have them also do the hone job afterwards (isn't that included with the over-bore job?) but if you have a block with bores in great shape showing minimal to no wear, then why CAN'T you use the flexball hone? you're not trying to re-shape the bore, you're just trying to scuff up the walls and give it some "tooth" for the new rings to seat against.
I happen to like straight, round cylinders for new rings    
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: To hone or not....
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1285956
08/20/12 02:13 PM
08/20/12 02:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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I agree with you but hear me out...The cylinder walls of a low mileage engine are as straight and round as they can be. They are probably rounder than what you'd get using a hone with no deck plate. The engine has been through thousands of piston cycles and it does it with the head bolted on and hot coolant running through the block. I view this as doing a better honing job than honing a cold block without the head bolted on. For that reason the Brush hone works well in roughing up the cylinder walls "for the rings to seat." It doesn't change the shape of the cylinders, so when the engine is buttoned up and running the cylinders will have returned to their previous round condition. Now on to the "ring seating" argument. I about choked on my oatmeal back in 1975 when I read in the Chevy Power book that it was recommended NOT to rough up the surface for new rings, unless there was something visibly wrong. But there it was in black and white written by Chevy engineers and purchased from the dealership. They said that modern (1975) rings seated so fast that it wasn't necessary to rough up the cylinder walls, and that it reduced friction to not do so. So I did it on a Toyota pickup and it worked. You've probably read this before from me, but that engine ran like a champ long after I'd sold it. I don't expect you to believe this, but it's what happened to me. R.
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