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Thanks!!! One more question. Do you put bungs in both pipes and tune each bank? Or do you just go off of one side of the engine?

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I bought the LM1 for on the car tuning and later bought the FAST unit for dyno tuning. Had problems with the FAST the first time I used it, return it to FAST under warrenty and they fix it FOC I treid switching the LM1 sensor from side to side and then compared the readings on the laptop, that will work and I did see that the right side ran different AFR than the left side I ended up buying the LC1 add on kit and hooked it up to the LM1 so I can read both sides at the same time I still see a difference on the two sides, time to start adjusting the jetting to get them even

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Thanks!!! One more question. Do you put bungs in both pipes and tune each bank? Or do you just go off of one side of the engine?

Dewayne is only 6 hours away from me and I spoke to him before, great guy.

Ryan J (Shady Dell) built my motor but I am looking to get the most out of it.

Thanks,
Jeff

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I've put bungs in both sides and there, typically, isn't a huge difference, especially if you have a good, single plane intake......Thing is, you can read both sides, but as long as it runs and drives nicely and the numbers aren't WAY off side to side, it's not worth worrying about IMHO unless you're tuning it on a dyno and trying to get every last ounce out of it.....

I want the car to drive around and feel completely smooth while transitioning from idle, to part throttle, to WOT at whatever rate and vehicle speed I put my foot down.......If it feels smooth, you're really close, if not right on the money, to where it wants to be.....

Since Ryan did your motor, I'm sure it'll run great and I KNOW he can help you tune it better than I can.....

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Anyone have any thoughts about the viability of results taken from an H or X pipe? Would an H pipe reduce the ability to see if the carb needed different jets side to side?

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I was wondering the same thing here. According to the local shop I go to, they say putting it in the h-pipe will give a reliable reading and then go from there as far as tuning. But... has anyone else done the same here? Great thread...

Dave

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With all the O/2 sensors now on the market,it makes it hard to decide which one to get Does anyone still read EGT's??Which one is better?I have EGT bungs in my headers and use the pan evac that goes into the header collector,so where do I put the O/2 bungs?

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For what we do, EGT's are basically useless.......They'll just tell you which hole is out.....

Here's some good info on EGT's.........

You can put the O2 sensor anywhere in the exhaust sysem, from the collector area all the way back to the tail pipe area........like mentioned, I put them somewhere around the transmission area.....

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OK any real world bracket racing info with the wide band? I could care less about drive ability

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no bracket racing info from anyone

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OK any real world bracket racing info with the wide band? I could care less about drive ability

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no bracket racing info from anyone

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Well, before my chassis dyno I was stuck in the low 10`s then after finding out how lean my street tune up was and fixing it, I went 9.98..........Now that my new motor is tuned from REAL world info, I went 9.94 w/dead tires on a 1.44 60ft. compared to my 1.36 60`s.

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OK any real world bracket racing info with the wide band? I could care less about drive ability

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no bracket racing info from anyone

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The LM1 with the LC1 and RPM option help me see the motor go lean after the 1/8 mile with the .110 needles and seats in all the carbs.(four, three Dominators and one Holley 850 DP ) I tested on the car at the 1/4 mile track. Go test it I'm working on leaning out the part throttle circuits now on those same carbs

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OK any real world bracket racing info with the wide band? I could care less about drive ability

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no bracket racing info from anyone

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The LM1 with the LC1 and RPM option help me see the motor go lean after the 1/8 mile with the .110 needles and seats in all the carbs.(four, three Dominators and one Holley 850 DP ) I tested on the car at the 1/4 mile track. Go test it I'm working on leaning out the part throttle circuits now on those same carbs

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OK any real world bracket racing info with the wide band? I could care less about drive ability

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no bracket racing info from anyone

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thats good, but kind of speed related. I am more interested in making one more consistent using the wide band. down here you almost have to run one lean to survive the daylight to dark scenario.

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OK......I'm going to TRY to explain this to you AGAIN.....but in a different way so MAYBE you'll understand.....

Do you absolutely NEED a timing light??? NO, because you could just time it by ear and then slowly put timing into your motor a small turn at a time until the trap speed stops picking up.........

Do you absolutely NEED a tire gauge??? NO, because you could just put air in the tires until they look about the same and then do some burnouts on dry pavement to figure out if you need more or less pressure in each tire........

Do you absolutely NEED an oil pressure gauge??? NO, because you could just run it with an idiot light, or no gauge at all......and if it spins a bearing or kicks a rod out, then you'll know it had an oil pressure problem....

Do you absolutely NEED an amp gauge or volt gauge??? NO, because you could know it's not charging by seeing that the headlights aren't as bright as they should be, or the battery is too low to crank the motor over.....

Do you absolutely NEED an angle finder to set pinion angle??? NO, you could just eyeball it and move it if it vibrates on deceleration or put more angle in it if you need more traction.....

Do you absolutely NEED a water temperature gauge??? NO, because you could just feel your cylinder heads by hand before you went up to make a lap......and as long as it's not puking water, odds are it's not runnnig hot......

Do you absolutely NEED a tachometer and/or shift light??? NO, because you could do EXACTLY like I do my 10 second 4-speed GTS and shift it by ear/feel........

AND do you absolutely NEED an O2 sensor??? NO, because you could do as most people do it........just set your floats.....set the idle mixture and run it......if it bogs, go to a bigger squirter and/or a bigger accelerator pump.......and if you're really feeling froggy, you can even change the jetting like very few actually do to get the most trap speed.........

The thing is, all EIGHT of those TOOLS are NOT needed......and they're all JUST tools........NONE of them tell you ANYTHING you HAVE to have.......

A timing light DOES NOT tell you how much timing you need........

A tire pressure gauge DOES NOT tell you how much tire pressure you need......

An oil pressure gauge DOES NOT tell you how much oil pressure you need.......

An amp gauge or volt meter DOES NOT tell you how much juice you need........

An angle finder DOES NOT tell you what angle the pinion needs to be......

A water temperature gauge DOES NOT tell you what you should run your water temperature at......

A tachometer and/or shift light DOES NOT tell you where you need to shift at.........

and an O2 sensor DOES NOT tell you what A/F ratio your motor needs to run at........and it can't tell you if you have an intake manifold with HORRIBLE air/fuel distribution, unless you put one in each header tube.........

Do you see the pattern here??

What do they ALL have in common?? They take a LOT of guess work out of this hobby and help you get to where you want to be a LOT faster.......

IMHO, EVERYONE that wants their car to run as good and consistant as possible NEEDS EVERY single one of those tools.......

BUT, you don't HAVE to have ANY of them.......