Quote:

---

the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.

---

Is this true of all the repos?
If so what did you use to reduce the hole size?

---

Normally they have a .060 orifice in the return nipple...
if you want to make sure its .060 drill a .060 hole
in a piece of 1/4 round brass stock and push it in the
end of the rubber hose at the separator nipple then
clamp the hose on

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.

---

Is this true of all the repos?
If so what did you use to reduce the hole size?

---

Quote:

---

Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.

---

Won't you see the clamps?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.

---

Won't you see the clamps?

---

I think if you slide the tip in far enough so that the hose could fit over the nipple you wouldn't need an extra clamp.

Now do I need a .060 diameter hole or should I go with .035" or something else? Running a Holly 870 Street Avenger carburetor.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.

---

Won't you see the clamps?

---

Quote:

---

i've tested different sizes. the smaller the more stable fuel pressure is. consider .060 max and around .030 minimum. actually i got down to figuring the area of different orifice holes and compared them to each other to get an idea of what the reduction in size really meant. .035 is a nice place to be.

---

What was your running pressure with a .030 and at
what size did the pressure start to drop at

---

thats somewhat of a loaded question. i'm going on mental notes here. the real pressure fluctuations are below 2500rpm. with a .075 orifice and a rated 6lb pump. fluctations at idle where between 2-5.5lbs. a lot of needle flopping on the pressure gauge. reducing the orifice size to .035 would bring the pressure variance down to about a 1-1.5lbs at idle. the real killer with the big orifice was fuel pressure up around 4500-5000rpm. pressure would go down to 2lbs (street 440 6-pak engine). reducing orifice size down to .035 would bring the higher rpm pressure up to about 3-3.5lbs. since then i've done some pump work and fuel line changes (deleted the return) and have not recorded any higher rpm pressure checks but do have the engine idling at 7.5psi with no problems. i'd think 5000+rpm pressure is probably 4+lbs. i know the car sure ran a bunch better. if the engine is basically stock just changing the orifice is good. if modified go after the pump too.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.

---

Won't you see the clamps?

---

No .... Not if you slide the welder tip on the hose far enough. The armor all will help the tip slide all the way in the hose. If you do it near whatever you are connecting to it will hook up like normal with just a clamp on the connection a the fuel pump or carb or whatever.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

i've tested different sizes. the smaller the more stable fuel pressure is. consider .060 max and around .030 minimum. actually i got down to figuring the area of different orifice holes and compared them to each other to get an idea of what the reduction in size really meant. .035 is a nice place to be.

---

. . . i'm going on mental notes here. the real pressure fluctuations are below 2500rpm. with a .075 orifice and a rated 6lb pump. fluctations at idle where between 2-5.5lbs. a lot of needle flopping on the pressure gauge. reducing the orifice size to .035 would bring the pressure variance down to about a 1-1.5lbs at idle. the real killer with the big orifice was fuel pressure up around 4500-5000rpm. pressure would go down to 2lbs (street 440 6-pak engine). reducing orifice size down to .035 would bring the higher rpm pressure up to about 3-3.5lbs. since then i've done some pump work and fuel line changes (deleted the return) and have not recorded any higher rpm pressure checks but do have the engine idling at 7.5psi with no problems. i'd think 5000+rpm pressure is probably 4+lbs. i know the car sure ran a bunch better. if the engine is basically stock just changing the orifice is good. if modified go after the pump too.

---

Quote:

---

Is the return hole size only on Repos or original chrysler ones also?

Larry

---

If I recall correctly the orifice was .060 on the
factory ones... that was alot of years ago when I
worked on that stuff in the fuel lab