Posted By: 68CoronetRT
68 Fuel Vapor Separater for 440 - 12/21/11 05:05 PM
Does anyone have a recommended source for these?
Anything to watch for on the repos?
Anything to watch for on the repos?
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the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.
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the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.
Is this true of all the repos?
If so what did you use to reduce the hole size?
Quote:all of them that i've used have too large of a return hole. i've been soft soldering up the hole and redrilling with a .035-.040 drill bit. factory return orifice was .060 but they used special pumps that are no longer availiable. i use carter 6903 pumps with some minor modifications.Quote:
the return hole is too large. it needs to be reduced to a maximun i.d. of .060.
Is this true of all the repos?
If so what did you use to reduce the hole size?
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Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.
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Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.
Won't you see the clamps?
Quote:i've tested different sizes. the smaller the more stable fuel pressure is. consider .060 max and around .030 minimum. actually i got down to figuring the area of different orifice holes and compared them to each other to get an idea of what the reduction in size really meant. .035 is a nice place to be.Quote:Quote:
Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.
Won't you see the clamps?
I think if you slide the tip in far enough so that the hose could fit over the nipple you wouldn't need an extra clamp.
Now do I need a .060 diameter hole or should I go with .035" or something else? Running a Holly 870 Street Avenger carburetor.
Quote:Quote:
Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.
Won't you see the clamps?
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i've tested different sizes. the smaller the more stable fuel pressure is. consider .060 max and around .030 minimum. actually i got down to figuring the area of different orifice holes and compared them to each other to get an idea of what the reduction in size really meant. .035 is a nice place to be.
Quote:Quote:Quote:
Get a Miller mig welder tip in whatever size you need cut the hose and use it as a splice. put some armor all on the welder tip and it will help you slide the hose all the way over the welder tip and you will never know it's there.
Won't you see the clamps?
No .... Not if you slide the welder tip on the hose far enough. The armor all will help the tip slide all the way in the hose. If you do it near whatever you are connecting to it will hook up like normal with just a clamp on the connection a the fuel pump or carb or whatever.
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i've tested different sizes. the smaller the more stable fuel pressure is. consider .060 max and around .030 minimum. actually i got down to figuring the area of different orifice holes and compared them to each other to get an idea of what the reduction in size really meant. .035 is a nice place to be.
. . . i'm going on mental notes here. the real pressure fluctuations are below 2500rpm. with a .075 orifice and a rated 6lb pump. fluctations at idle where between 2-5.5lbs. a lot of needle flopping on the pressure gauge. reducing the orifice size to .035 would bring the pressure variance down to about a 1-1.5lbs at idle. the real killer with the big orifice was fuel pressure up around 4500-5000rpm. pressure would go down to 2lbs (street 440 6-pak engine). reducing orifice size down to .035 would bring the higher rpm pressure up to about 3-3.5lbs. since then i've done some pump work and fuel line changes (deleted the return) and have not recorded any higher rpm pressure checks but do have the engine idling at 7.5psi with no problems. i'd think 5000+rpm pressure is probably 4+lbs. i know the car sure ran a bunch better. if the engine is basically stock just changing the orifice is good. if modified go after the pump too.
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Is the return hole size only on Repos or original chrysler ones also?
Larry
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the single diaphragm 2 valve pumps won't cut it for performance usage. if the engine is pretty much stock a carter 6903 is a perfect fit. if the power level starts going above 400-425hp i'd tinker with the 6903 a little. i disassemble the pump. the bottom section, the bowl, has an inlet passage that goes from one side to the other. open that passage up to 5/16". deburr and radius the inlet and outlet of that passage. deburr and radius the inside of the outlet passage in the center section. i use some 320 paper and a smooth hard surface to correct any warps or distortions in the mating surfaces of the bowl and centersection (valve body). doing this will actually add a little pressure. i don't mess with the valves. to get the pressure above 7psi i had a .060 rubber washer between the diaphragm seal and lever body (lever will need to be taken out to do this and probably isn't necessary to do unless you want to push the envelope a little). i played with an edelbrock 6lb pump a little and these pumps already have the bowl modifications but pressure was excessive, 9-11lbs, and they didn't pump anymore fuel than the 6903. ironically, the edelbrock pump is made by carter.
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. . . you don't state an intake/carb combo or if the heads were professionally ported with big valves (professionally done preferred).