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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: Dodge]
#1020259
06/28/11 09:59 AM
06/28/11 09:59 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,443
ME
79machocharger
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,443
ME
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Quote:
I would never do or own a Dukes Charger, but the one above is bad a$$! I have to ask, did you have it installed? Thanks Terry   
Yes I installed it. It came out of a factory sunroof abody. The car was a blast, it had all kinds of goodies on it including electronic cutouts on the exhaust.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjCdfyS0oQs
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: 79machocharger]
#1020260
07/02/11 01:30 PM
07/02/11 01:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Charger_440
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Man, what great information you guys! Thanks to all of u. The black general lee is cooool man! Mike, thank you for the info about the Volvo top. I was looking into a glass top, but that might be cool. I suppose it would have enough clearance to use with vinyl top material on the door part of it? And does it matter what year for the 80s Volvo?
Last edited by charger_440; 07/02/11 01:43 PM.
In a conversation with a Wyoming State Patrolman... "A 318 ??!!! But I clocked you at 142 mph!!!"
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: Charger_440]
#1020261
07/02/11 04:53 PM
07/02/11 04:53 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Man, what great information you guys! Thanks to all of u. The black general lee is cooool man! Mike, thank you for the info about the Volvo top. I was looking into a glass top, but that might be cool. I suppose it would have enough clearance to use with vinyl top material on the door part of it? And does it matter what year for the 80s Volvo?
Brandon,....electric glasstop/sliding roofs can be found in the mid 80's Diplomat/Lebaron line, but the front/leading edge of the glass will be curved, following the windshield/roof line, if that's ok?,....or if you want a modern electric rectangular sliding glass roof, mid 90 and up Volvos are equipped this way
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1020262
07/03/11 02:45 PM
07/03/11 02:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Charger_440
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
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would i be able to install the vinyl top material over the door if i used the steel volve one? without it rubbing or pulling up at the edges?
In a conversation with a Wyoming State Patrolman... "A 318 ??!!! But I clocked you at 142 mph!!!"
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: Charger_440]
#1020263
07/03/11 03:45 PM
07/03/11 03:45 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
would i be able to install the vinyl top material over the door if i used the steel volve one? without it rubbing or pulling up at the edges?
Even on the factory (ASC) sunroofs wrapped in vinyl, the fit around the perimter/panel is tight, you'd need a healty 1/4" gap around between the panel and roofskin to wrap the vinyl around both, that's why I prefere to use the existing hardtop roof and covert it into a sunroof opening, rather than graft the donor's sunroof skin in,...I can control the opening, either increasing/decreasing the opening, or correcting flaws, the sliding panel only relys on the hole in the roof to fill the opening when closed, so make the opening to your clearance specs
One of the advantages of using a newer cassette, is the cassette bolts into the car, so you have some wiggle room to locate the sliding door in the opening,...the 'FACTORY' ASC cassettes relied on not just bolting/welding in along the rear of the cassette, but the front and sides of the cassette needed to be spot welded to the sunroof opening flanges that roll into the sunroof opening, then you were left with playing with the sliding panel to get it not just 'SQUARED' in the opening, but able to drop down and travel back without hanging up, or skidding on the underside ruining the paint or vinyl mat'l, often tedious and fustrating,...On another note, that I failed to mention,...what I like to do is add a "band" of steel directly under the rear opening, under the roof skin, that goes from one side of the drip rail to the other, and across the entire width of the roof to support the roof skin, as it becomes a weakened/flexible area once the opening is installed,...generally a 1/8" thick by 6" wide band, X the width of the car, you don't see it after the headliner is in, nor when the panel is open, just a structual support of the roofskin, much like the factory ribs already in place, basically replacing the one that has to be removed to install the cassette, the factory did nothing to replace the lost crossmenber, but I find that the area needs some beefing IMHO
Mike
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: krisiesmopes]
#1020265
06/30/13 04:30 PM
06/30/13 04:30 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
I know, 2 year old thread, but interesting. Does anyone know the correct measurements, or how to ID a factory E/B body unit? The reason I ask is I had a fellow here yesterday buying parts for his 71 Charger, and when we were looking through the sheemetal he spied my sunroof... I got it in a large parts purchase from an E body guy. He said it was from a Challenger he parted years ago (like 79-80). I an take a boatload of pix no problem. This guy wanted to buy it, and asked me to think up a price... I have no idea.
IIRC...the 70-2 E/71-2 B unit will be approx 42"X20" give or take, electric only....depending on condition and completeness they can fetch from $700-$1200 on average
Mike
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: krisiesmopes]
#1020268
06/30/13 06:19 PM
06/30/13 06:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
I went and looked, it is 40 - 3/4 X 20 or so. Hand crank. I crank it, an it drops and slides back smooth, then goes back up no problem...possibly 73 B body then? I am uploading a bunch of pictures right now, but have slow internet so...
What you have is indeed the 73 and up B body handcrank version, the A body handcrank version is 36"X20" and slightly curved in the front opening edge also
A 73 and up B body handcrank version is at best, worth a few hundred
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: OldMoparMan]
#1020272
03/03/14 07:17 PM
03/03/14 07:17 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Just a note if your picking up a used roof.
I have a factory sun roof in the dart sport and the aluminum driving block was totally worn out I had to help the roof open and close.
I just had a buddy on mine machine one out of brass and make it just a little tighter in the cable slots and it works great.
Agreed,common problem with all the sunroofs, hand crank or electric they all use an aluminum block for the cable slides and drive mechanism to open/close the panel, I usually machine a replacement in steel, then case harden it for wear... 
Mike
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: GLR]
#1020274
03/06/14 02:02 AM
03/06/14 02:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Charger_440
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
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glr, thanks for the pic. nice looking job!
In a conversation with a Wyoming State Patrolman... "A 318 ??!!! But I clocked you at 142 mph!!!"
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Re: adding a sunroof 71-4 b body
[Re: GLR]
#1020277
03/06/14 08:38 PM
03/06/14 08:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Charger_440
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 715
Tulsa, Oklahoma
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GLR that looks very clean all the way around. I see that you have the solid slider with vinyl on it...did you fab your own opening like Dayclona was saying  , or did you graft in a roof section from the donor car?
In a conversation with a Wyoming State Patrolman... "A 318 ??!!! But I clocked you at 142 mph!!!"
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