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No, probably not necessary, but the reliability factor goes up with stronger parts.

But i was not asking if I should do it, but HOW to do it.



Items of interest. Most of the interchange issues is in the front pump/converter/input shaft area. First concern is the lockup/non lockup converter/pumps - obviously you want a non lockup pump/input shaft. Second issue is the "weakness" of the pump. There has been breakage issues with the converter drive ears cracking/breaking off. The solution is to have the converter made with a moly drive stub and use the A&A billet pump gear, or have the converter and pump converted to A500 parts (have flats instead on slots). Now you are up to input shaft/direct drum and pump compatibility - there are a couple different size hubs where the sealing rings seal to the pump, so make sure that you have a match there. Also, if you use a 5 clutch direct (Front) drum, you have to use the matching pump with the clearance ground for the larger drum, or grind it. Ideally, if you could find a non lockup 999 you could pretty much drop in the guts as a whole, but personally I haven't tried to do a slant 6 trans conversion, and it's hard to envision every step online. If I was piecing one together, I'd look for the 2.74/1.54 (low) gearset, 4 clutch forward (rear) drum, a 4 clutch direct(front)drum would work, but a 5 would be nice, and probably use a 4.2 kickdown band lever. New stock clutches and band would last, premium would last longer. This isn't a complete step by step to your build, but I hope it steers you in the right direction. Hopefully someone like John Kunkel will fill in the blanks for you.

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