I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
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Quote:
Quote:
by the time you get it balanced and finished you will have spent enough for a forged crank..
EXACTLY........
Few years back i broke a cast 4 inch stroker crank. I had upgraded my combo from high 10's to 10.30's and it broke after about 50 passes, and ruined the rest of my season. I learned the hard way to do it right the first time.
Like i love saying, spend the extra 500 bucks and get the good piece the first time. In the whole scheme of building a motor, 500 bucks is just a small fraction of the total build, so why scrimp, just wait till you can do it right, then you wont ever have to wonder 
to the cast crank's credit, B422W5, how many years did you run the cast crank, externally balanced in your 3400lb duster running 10.75-10.80? IIRC yours was a MP crank, which was made by SCAT...and I'd imagine your drag strip launching with slicks and a high stall converter would be as brutal, if not more so, than street driving a 4 speed with street tires.
as far as factory cast vs. SCAT 4" cast, hotroddave makes some good points, although the factory cast cranks are ductile (nodular) iron, so the continuous phase of the material is steel, not graphite, like it is in grey cast iron. the lack of filleted radii is offset by the fact it has more journal overlap due to the shorter stroke.
if you have no plans for further upgrades, I'd just run the cast crank, or even if you do have plans for further upgrades, it might be more cost effective to build a whole new motor in the future, because soon you're going to get close to the limits of the factory block....
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
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