Once you remove the "tension" on the torsion bars they tend to fall right out.

OK, so what keeps tension on the torsion bar? You've already released the torsion bar adjuster, so whats left? Someone suggested loosening the lower control arm pivot nut and prying the LCA a bit from the K-frame, this helps!!

Another spot of possible tension is the brake strut rod. These are designed to "triangulate" the lower control arm and can place a bunch of tension on the torsion bar in the lower control arm torsion bar socket. Unscrew the forward and rear nuts on the brake strut rod to relax the tension on the brake strut rod and try the prying between the lower control arm and K-frame again.

I think you have already done this, but remove the upper control arm to allow the LCA to go full droop. (either unbolt the UCA from the body at the cam bolts or unscrew the upper ball joint).

Once the LCA is totally free and "swinging in the breeze" as it where, the torsion bar should just about fall out. It is still possible that there is a bit of corrosion in the LCA socket that is holding it in, so try soaking the socket with your rust busting solution of choice.

A final solution to remove the front end when the torsion bars are stubborn and simply refuse to budge: drop the k-frame with the torsion bars still in and push the entire k-frame assembly forward. The rear of the torsion bars will pull forward out of the crossmember socket! You still need to wrestle them out of the LCA somehow, but at least it is out of the car and you can take it apart and wrestle with them on the workbench!!

Hope that helps, I've done about 100 (maybe more?) Mopar front ends over the years and I've stopped using a torsion bar removal tool - just don't need it. If I was changing a torsion bar in the car and the engine was still in, I could see the need on a very stubborn bar. Since the goal (mostly these days) is a complete removal for a rebuild I just pull the stuck ones forward and deal with them out of the car.

Last tip: When pulling the k-frame forward with the torsion bar still in place, remove the k-frame bolts, lower the kframe just enough to clear, place a wood block on the k-frame and tap with a deadblow hammer. Sometimes the hammer isn't even needed, you can just wiggle the k=frame forward on the jack or k-frame stand.

You do have a k-frame stand don't you? (smile!)