well, if you have the capability, measure the cyl wear and taper. if it's within specs, I'd have a machine shop hone it on their machine instead of a dingleball hone or deglazer on a drill (was $3 a hole at the local carquest for me). measure where the pistons are in the hole, if they're down a long ways, maybe deck the block a bit (I'd try stay under .040 decking)...if they're within ~.050 of 0 deck I'd call it good... new rings, bearings, t-chain, oil pump and gaskets, and you should have a pretty decent foundation to start with short block wise for about $500-600. since the pistons don't have valve reliefs you may need to back down on lift a skoash, maybe a comp XE274 or 284 instead of the HL series, they'll have ~ .025"-.040" less lift, and might cost you 20hp or so over the HL cams...