I agree, with studs sometimes you need to clearance the bolt holes to get the caps to seat properly & with #3 being the thrust bearing it's more critical...




Had to do exactly that on mine. Been 3 years of beating since. Chuck at Best (his caps) had me open the holes in the cap some and all was well.





Yes indeed

Sometimes you can get away with it and other times At this point it should be manditory when studs replace the factory main cap bolts, the block be line honed and the #3 thrust cap be drilled out with a 17/32 drill. Chuck Senatore taught me this trick 15 years ago.