This may help in the near future
Replacing the chain.
1. Remove the oil slinger on the front of the lower gear if it has one.
2. Rotate the engine so that the gear markings line up as they should when originally installed in preparation of the new chain.
3. Remove the cam gear bolt(s). Most often you can remove the bolt on the camshaft with a good ratchet. Turn the ratchet with a quick "Snap" of the handle to break the bolt loose and don't just turn it slowly. Sometimes use a ratchet hit with a hammer to break it loose. Or an impact is good too. Depending on the engine there are tools to hold the camshaft in a fixture but for old mopars that doesn't exist. However a camshaft holding tool MAY work depending on the style of cam gear.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZFSZWY Autozone sometimes rents a plastic one. Don't waste your time. You can jamb a screwdriver in the cam gear hole and the block but you risk damaging something depending on where you jamb it. This is a last choice IMHO.
If necessary rotate the engine back to line up the gear marks.
Remove the cam bolt & washer, fuel pump eccentric, and then gear & chain.
4. Remove the lower gear. Sometimes the lower gear will slide off and other times it is sludged onto the end of the crankshaft. Gentle prying (both sides of the gear) and brake clean to clean the crank snout is helpful. The gear will be replaced but you don't want to damage the block or introduce metal chips into the oil pan. A small gear puller can work too, I just don't have one that fits myself.
5. Clean, Clean the cam bolt & Washer, the fuel pump eccentric, the crank snout, and the oil drip bolt on the cam thrust plate. (Upper left bolt) You could run a paper clip in the hole but then you are pushing crap into the oil gallery. I suggest you remove it, clean it and reinstall it. Don't remove the other bolts just that one if it has a hole in it. I have seen other methods to oil the chain too that doesn't use a drip bolt. Picture of the bolt is here.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2829690/cam-thrust-plate.html6. Stuff a rag in the front of the oil pan and clean the gasket surface on the block.
7. Inspect the fuel pump eccentric. Now is the time to replace it if it is bad.
8. Clean the threads in the block and replace the drip bolt using Locktite thread locker. I use red but blue is fine.
9. Pre check the cam & crank alignment by installing the new chain.
10. Remove the chain and completely immerse/soak it in oil for a 1/2 hour. May be a waste of time but makes me feel better.
11. Reinstall the chain & Gears lining up the marks. Snug the cam bolt (don't forget the fuel pump eccentric) and rotate the engine at least 2 crankshaft turns. Be sure the marks still line up. Sounds stupid to some but it's better to be safe than sorry.
12. Remove the cam bolt, clean if necessary and reinstall with Locktite thread locker. Torque to spec.
13. Remove the old seal and clean the timing cover and all the gasket surfaces. Be sure to inspect the water pump and the front of the timing cover behind the pump. There are times the front of the timing cover goes bad with corrosion, cavitation, or wear from defective parts and water will leak into the crankcase through that spot.
14. Press in the new seal. Make sure the spring on the backside of the seal didn't pop loose and grease the lip where it touches the harmonic balancer.
15. Find/fit the correct oil pan seal. Most gasket kits come with 2 to 4 seals for the oil pan depending on the engine. One will be the correct one.
16. Coat the fuel pump eccentric with some break in lube.
17. Install the cover taking note that the oil pan seal will sometime make it hard get the cover to line up with the 2 alignment dowel pins. Make sure it sits flush before you snug the bolts.
18. Grease the seal surface of the harmonic balancer and install it with the bolt torqued to spec. I have had to wedge a piece of wood between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing on some cars with lots of mileage and low compression to torque the bolt. Other ideas guys?
19. Install the water pump bolts using sealant on the threads in case the threads go into the coolant passages. Many of the water pump bolts also hold the AC, Alternator, & power steering brackets. Leave the Alternator brackets off for a minute.
20. Coat the upper end of the fuel pump lever arm with assembly lube. Slide the fuel pump in place with the lever arm pointing down as much as possible. I like to rotate the engine until the fuel pump eccentric is at it's lowest to make the fuel pump bolts easier to install. Use a little sealant on the bolt threads.
21. Install the Alternator brackets with sealant on the threads.
22. Reinstall the radiator if necessary and position the fan shroud, fan and water pump pulley. Snug bolts as best as possible. Install the belts and tighten the pulley bolts the same way you removed them. Make sure to bolt in the shroud.
NOTE: Quick tip on the radiator. The lower two bolts on the radiator are slotted so install the lower bolts in the car about 1/2 way in and slide the radiator onto the bolts. Install the top bolts and tighten the bottom ones.
Hope it helps
