This is a thread I wrotte up loooong time ago, (in my still crude english… maybe a bit better now LOL) which began maybe the “fight” between ammeter lovers and haters LOL
It’s a sticky thread on dodge Charger board
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.htmlSeveral hard discussions about this at FBBO too.
Not my idea, just refloating a Mopar solution used on high load consumption cars (specially fleet cars) which I adopted, adapted and EXPLAINED for those with stock bulkhead connections cars. No need to remove but just adapt.
Please read EVERYTHING. Is a learning procedurement. I have made some “upgrades” on the initial idea along the years.
Mattax (a member here and at FABO too) took this info for his personal website.
http://www.heritech.org/cuda/Charge.htmlAs far you understand what the ammeter reading really means (I’d say maybe 75% of the ppl doesn’t understand the gauge, hence why the myths floats on) you will be safe.
The deal on this is get the best alt as posible able to feed everything you need at the lower RPMs as posible and get EVERYTHING feeded from the alt side of the game like factory did. This will asure the correct amm reading.
If the alt you get is a 60 amps but is able to feed 45-50 amps at iddle, good (this is tipically unreal). If you get a 100 amps alt but it gets the same rate at iddle, good too. IMHO if you get an alt able to feed 55-60 amps at iddle…GREAT!
Tuffstuff alts are able to feed this, also some powermaster units… on stock look. Tipically rated at ~100 amps.
I’m pointing out someday in the future to a 8509DP Tuff Stuff alt for my car.
The alt just puts out what the car and batt demands to get everything correctly sourced.
The less the battery gets discharged, the less stressed the charging network will be.
The batt just should source the cranking moment and some load peaks quite often, but the constant operation must be sourced by the alt.
