Originally Posted by CMcAllister

Big cam, little vacuum, engine idles down, timing comes out and slows the engine, Now more timing comes out. Now it shuts off in gear unless you keep you foot on the gas or crank the idle screw in. Now you've upset the throttle blade to transfer slot relationship.

I know, let's make the total curve real short so the timing doesn't fall back 25 or 30 degrees at idle. Let's make it 10, or less.

Why bother. Lock it out. You can always put springs back in, if you don't like it



iagree Been there , done that grin The only issue I had was an intermittent kick back when starting shruggy.
Switched to a crank trigger and grid, no more issues, they are pretty awesome and you can set the curve to wherever you want. We've used launch retard to control wheelstands (it did work), the whole thing is triggered from a footbrake launch (or what ever you want). You can also add on modules for traction control, O2 monitoring and Boost / Timing control.
Below is a typical timing curve on ours. (Auto Box)
[Linked Image]


'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials.
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