Originally Posted by moparx
Thank You Sir ! up bow
that puller you linked to looks great ! i will have to fab one of those up, or possibly i can use my "GM to Ford" bolt pattern transfer plate i made way back around 1974 or so, at the start of my machinist career.
i could make a center "adapter plate" for it to be used on keyed axles.
i made this thing to transfer/change bolt patterns on flat mounting surface steel or aluminum wheels. i made several "adapter circles" that centered the wheels, and using the already drilled lug holes to bolt on my adapter, as well as using the center register of the wheel, i could mark and drill the opposing bolt pattern [ford to chevy 4 3/4" or chevy to ford 4 1/2"] to .003 or .004" TIR.
i looked for a picture of that thing, but i can't find it.
anyway, at that time, steel wheels got a 60 degree chamfer/seat to use stock lug nuts, and aluminum wheels got the standard 7/8" mag-style shank lug nut holes.
i was making "10 hole - Ford/Chevy" bolt pattern wheels early on, copying the dual bolt pattern found on real magnesium wheels.

Thank You again for that puller link !
beer


I have the puller without the sledge hammer beater "wing". I have always used an Impact gun with a socket. PM Me if interested as i don't anticipate having a need for it. It's 50 + years old so no chinese junk wink
Snipers comment on leaving it under tension is one I've never tried but a good idea. wink
I've also heard of loosening the nuts a turn or two and driving the car whipping the steering wheel side to side.
They can be stubborn down
China versions are also available on AMZ and elsewahere pretty cheap PULLER LINKY

www.tandmautomotive-omaha.com