i do it the simple and easy way.
i remove as much of the old fluid in the master as i can.
i make a speed bleeder. i use a clear bottle, old soda plastic soda bottles work great, with a little of the NEW fluid at the bottom and a hose connected to the bleeder. make sure the other end is submerged in the fluid. MAKE SURE THE HOSE CONNECTS SECURELY TO THE BLEEDER. there can't be any air leakage at this connection. i usually make a hanger for the bottle with a coat hanger if i an doing this on a hoist, witch is most of the times i did this. i drill a hole in the cap to help secure the hose so it doesn't move above the fluid level.
attach the hose to the bleeder then open it. i start on the RR
them pump the pedal about 4-8 times. depending on the size of the master.
refill the master and pump another 4-8 times. DO NOT LET THE MASTER EMPTY OUT WHEN BLEEDING. this will create problems and you will have to run fluid thru the entire line to get the air you just added to the brake line.
repeat until you see the DOT 5. then move on to the LR, RF, LF.
then do the bleed again but this time pump about 4-6oz of fluid out each wheel.
check the pedal hardness. 8 out of 10 times you will be done.
you will use at least 1QT of fluid when you do this.

i like to attach a vibration device to the brake line being bled to help remove hidden air pockets. this is really effective on the rear lines. this also helps when bleeding the front calipers.

i also like to use the proper speed bleeders on the front calipers if they are available. these work a little better than the hose and bottle speed bleeder method.
as i posted before. PUMP SLOWLY. use slow and steady strokes with the pedal when bleeding.

auto part stores usually sell the same basic set up i make myself. black vacuum lines are OK to use. clear lines work a little better they let you see if any air enters the system..


i haven't done this job in about 10 years now that i an into newer cars with ABS.