I don’t mean to be rude, but you are breaking parts because of the clutch. I’ve been drag racing stick shift Chrysler’s since 1980. I broke a ton of stuff that you can’t imagine. I trashed 35 spline axles. Twisted 23 spline inputs like pretzels. I shredded 3rd gear clean to the root so many times I could feel it happening while I was letting out of the clutch. And much more.

And all of that stopped when I bought the right clutch and started tuning with it. The clutch can break any part at any time during the run. Your 23 spline input is fine IF you do something about the clutch.

Grant has posted enough info here that it should start making some sense, and I don’t mean that in an offending way. I can be hard to get your mind around what’s happening when the clutch is fragging the best parts you can buy. Let me say it this way.

It’s not about slipping the clutch or the tires. That’s wrong thinking. It’s all about APPLYING the clutch the right amount at the right time. What you have is essentially a toggle switch for a clutch. It’s either on or off. When the plate is against the disc, it is fully locked up. That’s a part killer, an ET killer and it takes the fun right out of a clutch car.

That said, there are two ways to apply the clutch. One is the Clutch Tamer. Grant can fix this if I’m wrong, but in reality his Clutch Tamer slows down the pressure plate as it engages with the disc. It is basically slipping the clutch in a controlled and controllable manner. This does many things, but one big thing is it keeps the aggressive disc and big plate loads from killing your gear box and drive train. You set the Clutch Tamer to apply the plate to the disc to control the application of the clutch. You’ll stop killing parts and your ET’s will drop.

The other way sounds the same but it’s not. With a sintered iron disc and an adjustable pressure plate you control the application of the clutch, but the big difference is the plate (pressure plate if I didn’t make that clear before) is always fully in contact with the disc. So the combination of aggressiveness of the disc, the shape and geometry of the clutch finger, base plate pressure, counter weight (if any) all play in applying the clutch. Unlike the CT, which slowly (relatively slowly) applies the plate to the disc, the Soft Lock set up always has the plate clamping on the disc. I know that may seem like no big difference, but it is different.

There will always be heat generated with either method you use. One is more expensive and I think more tunable, and the other is much, MUCH less expensive (that isn’t a bad thing BTW) and somewhat less tunable.

If you think it over you’ll start to see the differences. Either way, you need to do the one or the other or you will find the next weakest link in the drive train and kill it. I hope this helps you grasp the concept of clutch application and two ways to do it. You have to manage the clutch in some way, otherwise it owns you.