Just thinking out loud here...I've lived with carbs on my first muscle car for decades, and three of them at that. Installing a wide band really helped me dial them in to reach a drivablility that was near EFI level performance, but there were still unresolved, ongoing issues with warm up, heat soak and hot day driveability that will never improve no matter how much tuning and tweeking I do.

I have a Shaker hood that very effectively hides those 3 beautiful Holleys and Edelbrock intake too. Sure I could take off the Shaker components to expose them at car shows, but then I worry about scratching the parts, having them stolen or leaving my carbs open to the world and someone dropping something down them. You never know these days.

I put off converting to EFI for quite a while because my A/C compressor is bolted down on the passenger side front of the motor to hide it, so there is no room for a crank trigger on that side of the motor. Plus, I need two pulleys on the crank, and spent a lot of time aligning my pulley set-up to maximize belt wrap and ensure good high rpm stability of the belts.

With the availability of a Dual Sync distributor, I can have both a crank and a cam signal, that essentially drops right in like a distributor. Quick and easy to do, plus I can run Coil On Plug too.

The entire intake, throttle body, fuel rails and most of the fuel lines will be hidden under my Shaker hood base plate, so no one would notice the missing six pack anyway. I will need to purchase an after market steel Shaker hood baseplate to fit the 4150 throttle body, spacer and taller 440 Victor intake and mount both rows of COP coils to the underside of it.

I'm shipping the 440 Victor to Wilson Manifolds for their Intermediate porting, throttle body flange height adjustment, injector repositioning and fuel rail stanchion install work. The as cast Victor is really rough inside the plenum and the manifold itself is too wide resulting in significant port misalignment. I've read online that this is a common problem. I'm having my local machine shop carefully cut the manifold faces down to drop the port positions down to better fit the ports on my Indy EZ's. Wilson can take it from there once I get the ports lined up.

To gauge this, I put grease on the head;s manifold flange and a bit of Permatex on the manifold, positioned the gaskets to perfectly line up with the head's intake ports and then bolt the manifold down over night. I removed it the next day, and the gaskets stay on the intake in the exact position of the head ports. I have had to slightly elongate the manifold's bolt holes to ensure the bolts don't hold the manifold up from the heads when tightened. I didn't want to cut too much off the manifold with one big cut, so I am having the shop do several smaller cuts to get the ports to line up. I'll add some pictures to illustrate the above talking points.The picture of the ports in the second photo was taken after the first cut was made on the manifold flanges. The top of the ports are still too high on one side of the manifold, so another smaller cut will take care of that prior to shipping out to Wilson so they can work their magic on the inside of the ports and plenum and blend their 4150 throttle body to the intake and set it at the correct flange height for a Shaker hood.4bbl base.

My fuel system is already plumbed and has a return line, but I do have to switch fuel pumps and regulators to the higher EFI pressure stuff from Fuel Labs. These parts will swap right in making that part easy. The Holley HP ECM is all I will need for my simple conversion, and I've gone to Rich at Fastman EFI for the parts and tuning expertise. I was tempted to add nitrous, but I have a stock block and am already knocking at the limit of that piece. I may add a water methanol kit to help with our ever diminishing octane out here of the left coast.

Rich recommended 66 lbs injectors, and I'm wondering if I will pick up power with this conversion or stay about where It was? There is an interesting comparision on The Hughes web site regarding the previous build of this motor running the 3-2bbls vs a big 4 bbl. Here's the link to that. The motor has since been switched to a bigger solid roller and pump gas friendly 10-2 to 1 compression.

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/3dynotest684hp500cid6pack4bbljcross012007.php