When I said "That looks like a mid to late 70's early 80's truck or van." I based it of of the curved ignition switch connector and the Rag joint. It may also be out of a 75 or later B, F M, or J body also.

The Rag joint is a dead give away for either a rubber bushing mounted K frames (73 & Later B Body & F, M, J body), or rubber mounted cab like on Vans & Trucks.

Do you have a column in your 74 now? compare the lengths and shapes of the retainer on that column. You may luck out and find it will fit as is, except that ignition switch connector was not like any 74 B body switch I have ever seen. Probably have to change the switch or cut off the curved connector and splice.

I have rebuilt and swapped many columns. It is not a big deal. That spring at the bottom of the column is a retainer that pushes the lower bearing into the column and I have not disassembled one out of the car. Knowing the size of the upper bearing that spring can not put much pressure on the lower bearing or the upper bearing would be toast in no time.

Starting around #12 it gets a little vague. It' has been a few more years since I did more than the ignition switch but if you get it out the rest is easy.

Basically it goes like this.
1. Disconnect the battery, and all the connectors under the column.
2. Remove the steering wheel or steering wheel adapter/can/collar with a proper puller.
3. Remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal plate and the 1 screw from the turn signal lever.
4. You will need to remove the lower plastic cover and the metal support bracket under the column if you are going to fully remove the top of the column. If you are just replacing the ignition switch you need to just get some slack in the wiring by removing the plastic cover and maybe the support.
5. Wiggle the turn signal plate and slide the turn signal wiring up until you can get access to the 3 screws that hold the upper housing to the lower housing.
Note: If you are just replacing the ignition switch you just need a good bit of slack and let the switch hang loose. If you are replacing the turn signal switch or removing the upper housing completely you will need to wiggle the wiring completely out of the column.
6. There is a small snap ring on the steering shaft on the top of the upper bearing. Remove it and wiggle the upper housing up and over the steering shaft. It is often kind of hard to get the upper column to slide off the shaft. You can pry between the two housings but it often scratches the housings at the parting line.
Note: Pay close attention to the groove it is in because it holds the shaft in place when it is fully assembled.
Another Note: Expect the shaft to drop into the column a little bit, it is normal.
7. Under the upper housing is the steering column lock plate. It looks like a wheel with notches cut out of it. There is a retaining collar around the center of the lock wheel hub area. Pry it up and remove it.
8. There is a pin going through the lock wheel and steering shaft under the retainer. Tap it out, Chrysler made a tool to remove it but it can easily be done by tapping it out. Slide the wheel off the shaft.
9. With the lock wheel removed you can access the ignition switch and lock cylinder. Early lock cylinder's were held in place with a bolt. Later ones have a spring loaded tab. To release the spring loaded tab push an allen wrench or stiff wire in the hole on the lock cylinder tunnel portion of the upper housing. Pull out the lock cylinder.
10. Remove the 3 screws that hold the ignition switch in the upper housing and slide the switch out. you will have to deal with the wiring harness connector and a small space to pull it through but it will make it.
11. Remove the lock mechanism for the Steering wheel lock plate. Remove the screws holding the middle housing to the main column tube and remove the middle housing.
12. There is an allen screw that holds the shift collar to the column shift tube. Remove it and remove the shift collar/lower housing.
13. From the lower portion of the column slide the steering shaft out of the main column tube.
14. Slide the shift tube out and remove the outer bearing from the main column tube. Some are held in with a snap ring some are 2 or 3 screws.
15. Install the correct bearing in the lower tube of the column and slide the steering shaft into the column.
16. Attach the lower housing to the main tube and connect the return spring between the housing and the main column. The spring and the rubber bumper are not in the column shift column as far as I know so and the housing kits may not have them.
17. Reassemble everything else in reverse order.

NOTE: When you get to the upper snap ring it helps to place a large washer under the nut that holds the steering wheel on and use it to pull the column upward while installing the snap ring. I have also used a myriad of tools to pry the column up. Be careful to not damage the splines.

I need to tear into mine and scrap the parts I can't use.


I will try to do it this weekend and get some pics.

If you can swap a column you can rebuild one.