Cordoba steering column in a 74 roadrunner

Anyone done this? Is it a bolt in with length and wiring?

We were discussing this swap on another site last week. Someone put a Cordoba tilt column in a Challenger. He said the wiring is a direct swap. The columns were sourced from Saginaw and are wired for a GM. When they were used in Mopars, there was a conversion harness in between the column wiring and the dash wiring. As long as you have that conversion harness, the wiring is a direct swap. For installation in a Challenger, the factory rag joint needs to be cut off the column and the Challenger coupler/shaft welded on. I know things changed in 73 on the B-bodies. Do they use the old coupler or a rag joint like the Cordoba?

They both use the coupler & the rag joint. The difference in the 73 and 74 is the location of the rag joint. In 74 it was near the firewall in 73 it was at the steering box.

The coupler is supposed to fix alignment problems with the steering box and the rag joint flexes with the K frame since it is on rubber biscuits. Or so they say.

Just an FYI.

There are more differences between 73 and 74. Rag joint is not the same, firewall bracket on 74 is the same than A bodies. All in all 73 is 1 year only setup.

Now, about the OP question. I think it should, HOWEVER you could find differences on the ignition switch plug and wires disposition, but is just about fit the 74 ign switch into the Cordoba column

Is 73 and 74 interchangeable?

Yes, but no!

I meant, they are not a straight interchange. Of course shaft assembly ( complete up to the steering box ), collars, etc... will fit. Everything is the same size and lenght BUT, the bracket/plate to the firewall and related parts are totally diff ( hence also the firewall provision ). As far I recall the bracket/plate of 74s ( and I guess laters too ) is taken from A bodies. So could you fit a 73 column into a 74 or backwards? I guess yes if you have the correct bracket/plate assembly to the receiver and "build it".

My only doubt could be the lower bearing system. I don't even recall how is my 74 LOL, so I can't think if could get some parts unable to be matched.

Being 73s a problem due the "hockey puck" rag joint, I guess you could build a 74 steering assembly into a 73 mixing the required parts for it.

On 74 the bracket to dash frame also change from 3 attaching points from earliers to 2 attaching points, but that's not a big deal really.

However I could understand some 73 owner trying to install a 74 column on his car to save the rag joint problem for 73s, but never backwards. It would be a step back if you ask me.

I GUESS, you are trying to change from column shifter to floor shifter?

About the ign switch deal I mentioned. I can't recall when Chrysler changed the ign switch plug and setup, but while at least up to 74 was used this



On laters ( 75? 76? 77? ), the plug used was this




When not just the plug but also the wiring and the power distribution also changed. So even if the column physically fits ( which I think it does ) you will need to reuse your ign switch


I guess if you are hunting for 'Doba/Charger column you should pay attention to the firewall plate will tell you if you can install a later column into a 74 without any problem. The rest will be pretty much the same fitment and bolt in

Not just the location and shaft flex system ( diff coupling system all around ) BUT also the kind of rag joint. While 73 uses the big one "hockey puck" with metalic insert allmost 1" thick,




74s use the thin one basic piece allmost universal which most of cars use, a "basic" rubber disc maybe 1/4"-1/3" thick

75 uses that rounded ign switch connector.

Good info guys.Thank you.Still looking for a 74 auto on the floor column I guess.

There are conversion kits available. You don't need to find the full column, since the shaft is the same for floor and column shifters. Or any other year setup and simply keep your just only 74 parts. Just remove the collars and install the propper ones. Now I don't know what you will deal with lower bearings and shifter tube. I'm not familiar with column shifter parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1971-7...8?hash=item2af3690f12:g:SrsAAOSw0vVfd6HA

but dunno if is really the full setup or will need anything else

or if you want it NOS with turning switch included ( and even the release lever lettering )

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-...5?hash=item2aca69b465:g:438AAOSwUHRcvnEy

Thanks for confirming that! I was pretty sure about that BUT most of listings show the rounded plug for 77 and lates.

What is this column from? Any ideas?

That looks like a mid to late 70's early 80's truck or van. The horn button is another story. Not sure what it's from.
It's a good candidate for parts to convert a column shift column to floor shift.

At first you were asking about a Cordoba column. But from your later posts I gather you are interested in getting a floor shift column in your 74?

Do you have a 74 column shift column in your car already? If so that one should be what you need to convert it to floor shift.

I have one in the basement just for such a project.

Yes.I am looking to convert to floor shift.I found that column in my stash.I remember parting out a 74 satellite but couldn't remember what that column came out of.I have never had a steering column apart to do the conversion.

When I said "That looks like a mid to late 70's early 80's truck or van." I based it of of the curved ignition switch connector and the Rag joint. It may also be out of a 75 or later B, F M, or J body also.

The Rag joint is a dead give away for either a rubber bushing mounted K frames (73 & Later B Body & F, M, J body), or rubber mounted cab like on Vans & Trucks.

Do you have a column in your 74 now? compare the lengths and shapes of the retainer on that column. You may luck out and find it will fit as is, except that ignition switch connector was not like any 74 B body switch I have ever seen. Probably have to change the switch or cut off the curved connector and splice.

I have rebuilt and swapped many columns. It is not a big deal. That spring at the bottom of the column is a retainer that pushes the lower bearing into the column and I have not disassembled one out of the car. Knowing the size of the upper bearing that spring can not put much pressure on the lower bearing or the upper bearing would be toast in no time.

Starting around #12 it gets a little vague. It' has been a few more years since I did more than the ignition switch but if you get it out the rest is easy.

Basically it goes like this.
1. Disconnect the battery, and all the connectors under the column.
2. Remove the steering wheel or steering wheel adapter/can/collar with a proper puller.
3. Remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal plate and the 1 screw from the turn signal lever.
4. You will need to remove the lower plastic cover and the metal support bracket under the column if you are going to fully remove the top of the column. If you are just replacing the ignition switch you need to just get some slack in the wiring by removing the plastic cover and maybe the support.
5. Wiggle the turn signal plate and slide the turn signal wiring up until you can get access to the 3 screws that hold the upper housing to the lower housing.
Note: If you are just replacing the ignition switch you just need a good bit of slack and let the switch hang loose. If you are replacing the turn signal switch or removing the upper housing completely you will need to wiggle the wiring completely out of the column.
6. There is a small snap ring on the steering shaft on the top of the upper bearing. Remove it and wiggle the upper housing up and over the steering shaft. It is often kind of hard to get the upper column to slide off the shaft. You can pry between the two housings but it often scratches the housings at the parting line.
Note: Pay close attention to the groove it is in because it holds the shaft in place when it is fully assembled.
Another Note: Expect the shaft to drop into the column a little bit, it is normal.
7. Under the upper housing is the steering column lock plate. It looks like a wheel with notches cut out of it. There is a retaining collar around the center of the lock wheel hub area. Pry it up and remove it.
8. There is a pin going through the lock wheel and steering shaft under the retainer. Tap it out, Chrysler made a tool to remove it but it can easily be done by tapping it out. Slide the wheel off the shaft.
9. With the lock wheel removed you can access the ignition switch and lock cylinder. Early lock cylinder's were held in place with a bolt. Later ones have a spring loaded tab. To release the spring loaded tab push an allen wrench or stiff wire in the hole on the lock cylinder tunnel portion of the upper housing. Pull out the lock cylinder.
10. Remove the 3 screws that hold the ignition switch in the upper housing and slide the switch out. you will have to deal with the wiring harness connector and a small space to pull it through but it will make it.
11. Remove the lock mechanism for the Steering wheel lock plate. Remove the screws holding the middle housing to the main column tube and remove the middle housing.
12. There is an allen screw that holds the shift collar to the column shift tube. Remove it and remove the shift collar/lower housing.
13. From the lower portion of the column slide the steering shaft out of the main column tube.
14. Slide the shift tube out and remove the outer bearing from the main column tube. Some are held in with a snap ring some are 2 or 3 screws.
15. Install the correct bearing in the lower tube of the column and slide the steering shaft into the column.
16. Attach the lower housing to the main tube and connect the return spring between the housing and the main column. The spring and the rubber bumper are not in the column shift column as far as I know so and the housing kits may not have them.
17. Reassemble everything else in reverse order.

NOTE: When you get to the upper snap ring it helps to place a large washer under the nut that holds the steering wheel on and use it to pull the column upward while installing the snap ring. I have also used a myriad of tools to pry the column up. Be careful to not damage the splines.

I need to tear into mine and scrap the parts I can't use.


I will try to do it this weekend and get some pics.

If you can swap a column you can rebuild one.

Thanks for all your help.

Here are some pictures of dissembling the column I am using for parts.
Maybe this weekend I will get some pictures of a column shift column. Fingers Crossed.

Next Set

Next Set.

Last Set for now. I abbreviated it some do to the 4 file upload limit.

Wow! Thank you that simplifies the process.I appreciate you taking the time to post that.

Thank you again!

This lever is to activate the key in warning buzzer switch which is missed on this column.Nothing to do with any kind of lock system

We put a tilt/cruise column from a Cordoba into my 73 Coronet wagon. Easy swap, but the housing for the shifter, etc did not completely cover the portion of the column that was visible between the steering wheel and the dash. There was probably 2-3 inches of bare metal column visible, which I thought looked awful. Otherwise, very easy, worked great, no issues.

True but it prevents you from removing the cylinder if the key is in the lock cylinder. I pointed this out because many cars require the key to be in the lock cylinder to prevent people from removing the cylinder without a key. Especially important on modern columns where you have nothing but the plastic clam shells covering the lock assembly.

If someone is used to newer stuff it can be a frustration I was hoping to avoid.

Awesome picture of that switch. Thank you for posting that. I didn't have one handy and forgot to mention it.

The switch pic is actually taken from rear side so it seems to be reversed to the cylinder pushing lever sense.

And about if the lever blocks the cylinder removal or not, really is not the goal in any case. The cylinder needs to get the lock button ( or lock lever on 70 assembly, not a bolt ) pressed anyway so the column needs to be 50% disassembled and will be easy to note visually the key is not needed for the cylinder removal like it’s needed on glove box cylinder.

But I got what you meant