I did one of mine 14 years ago with plain rustoleum epoxy shield, it has been flawless. I waited 28 days, etched with muratic acid, and rolled it on. I am sure any brand is good but have had friends buy the high dollar cool guy coatings, and super clearcoats and they have problems with hot tires sticking to it. I will warn you that my paint will burn from weld slag, will come off if you beat on it with a hammer, will lift if you put lacquer thinner on it overnight, but that should be obvious. I have another shop with plain power honed super smooth concrete and I like it too, it has stains but as long as you wipe stuff up it is no problem either. I did not put plastic under that slab, 21 and did not know any better, so no faith the paint would stick. My painted floor was power honed, but not as smooth as my non painted. If yours is super smooth have someone shotblast it. The paint is slick when wet, I put rustoleum silica in at 1/2 the recommended amount for a little grip. If you overdo the silica it becomes a [censored] to clean. I think my next floor will be medium honed and concrete stained that brown rust color.
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