First off, are these econ castings, or the race castings which have the stands milled off. It makes a difference. Either way, you are working with two different geometries. One is the valve side, the other is the pushrod side.

If you have the heads with milled stands, setting the geometry on the valve side is relatively simple. And, I'm assuming you have the offset blocks and shafts. If you have the econo heads, Mike at B3 racing engines makes a kit to correct the geometry with that set up. Quick, easy and it works. You have to take some measurements and call him and he will set you up.

Again, fairly easy.

The pushrod side...there is not much you can do, as everything is essentially set for you, and can't be easily adjusted.

You have two different pushrod geometry angle issues. On the intake side, you have the rocker offset and the lifter offset. The pushrod being out of parallel in one plane is bad enough, but the 59 degree lifter bank angle makes everything worse.

I'd suggest you forget about hydraulic roller lifters. Those retro lifters have the pushrod seat so high, it aggravates the pushrod angle to the rocker. It's a disaster. I'd never do that again. Spend your money on a QUALITY roller lifter and make your life easier.

Edit: skip the offset roller lifter. It loads the rivets that holds the link bars on. Just use a QUALITY lifter, like a Crower, Crane (Pro Series ONLY not the other cheap crane lifters) or BAM, or the Isky. But they will all be close to 1k or a bit more.