Few quick thoughts.
Don't worry so much about brand, but rather specific tire.
If the car currently is shod with F70r14, then the tire diameter is roughly 26" with a Load capacity of 1500 lbs. and weighs about 24 lbs.
So that's the current baseline.
then start looking at different possible combinations available.
The simplest is going to be the same type of tire in larger rim with shorter sidewall.
Watch out for the so called streetable DOT competition tires. This is code for 200 TW tires designed to meet various competition rules. The ones I've looked are unsuitable for northern climates with warnings about use or storage below 50*F! In contrast you can buy a relatively tough regular competition tire that's usable down to freezing temperatures and will by inference be less sensative to heat cycling. Some of these are far cheaper too!
For example Toyo Proxes R888R
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp...R&tab=SpecsSimilar overall diameter, higher load rating, weighs 27 lbs. and is not too camber hungry for a competition radial.
These would be an investment of $650 or so with shipping.
A Piralli P600 has 'only a 180 TW' rating, but is truly streetable tire. It's not cheap. Be a good $1000 but your brotehr could use it for more than just track days. It is also a 27 lbs, 26" tall tire but in 15" with a taller sidewall.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp...romCompare1=yesIf mounted to the same model rim, in the same width, the 15" combo will weigh less in total.
So these are the things to weigh, so to speak.
Fred Puhn has a few pictures and diagrams discussing brake cooling for drums.
Try to get any braided stainless hoses from a company that's done their homework - maybe even got them DOT certified. Just a little too little strain relief and they can eventually break. That's not just theory.
3 Suspension.
Front sway from Hotchkis, w polyurethane bushes and HD seats and sleeves. Plan is to leave the OEM rear leafs as is. No rear sway. But we'll 'review w Hotchkis and be clear our goal is a bit more oversteer. Discuss shock recommendations w Hotchkis.
?? I thought it already was a little loose at times?
Discuss with Firmfeel too if you want to see if perspectives are different.
Rear bar changes will be more noticible. A light bar, with adjustability maybe something down the road.
- Alignment? I've never tweaked my Mopars but will search here, see what you guys are operating with. My track car is dropped 30mm front, 1.5 degrees added camber, 2 degrees total toe-in, and little caster. I'm really not tempted to mess with the RR's alignment much (I can't understand those offset cam bolts for our UCA's)... unless I can get two days scheduled w a shop.
Not many shops are competent here.
Smartcamber is a relatively cheap digital gage. I like bubble gages better myself. The shop manual has a good intro to the adjustments.
If you take a turn or two out of the torsion bars, that might be enough change for this upcoming outing. That alone will do slightly increase negative camber, postive caster, as well as slighly lowering roll center and center of gravity.
Other:
- Should've mentioned that we are not blinded by improving just the car. Developing driving skill ranks topmost in improving lap times.
