#1. Change the brake fluid. Valvoline's 'synthetic' is pretty good stuff.
#2 Check everything else over. Brake shoes, oil, tires, oil, etc.
#3 Have a good time.


That's doable. Not sure how much difference in grip there will be. If it shortens the sidewall, gets more tread width, and maintains the load rating it should be a plus.
Package may weigh more. You should note that Scott Harvey recommended doubling up on the spiders of steel rims, at least for rally. There's a classic photo of the Chrysler France Hemi 'cuda with a broken ralley rim. A circle track rim like Basset makes might be stronger and lighter.
An aluminum rim with lots of cross sectional strength is worth looking into. ie styles torque thrust, mini-light, mag star, or 'ansen' slots.

Since he owns the 14s, maybe the new set of tires is dedicated to track rather try to make them dual purpose.


Bring some method of checking drum temps. See how much wear is on the ones on there from last outing, and if visible, the edge code. Rochester Brake and Clutch is worth talking with about linings and they can arc them too.
Tricky part is the car is inbetween street and track. Linings for racing with front drums will generally not be great for street. With the street tires, not sure the speeds and loads will be there for all out race linings. Besides the temperature range, how the linings feel to him - the release and grabbyiness - will be important to how comfortable and confident he feels with them.


Save and measure the original leafs. Important reference point and those may end up being better than a repop.
On track, definately increase that front roll resistance. If there had to be a choice, do that over the leafs. Use polyurethane end link bushings with heavier washers and sleeve.

Does the car have the optional shoulder belt? That's not a quick and easy if not installed but would be good start.
Scroth claims to have a safe, DOT approved, 4 point harness. I've never felt fully confident in that claim, especially as a retrofit into one of our cars. But they've had it out for over 15 years so could be worth writing them.
My concerns are (a) riding up off the hips while driving. (b) no cross strap for the shoulder belts during a crash situation.

I think so.
A cheap freebee is to drop the nose a little and align for a little more agressive camber and caster. Use shoe polish if you don't have a pyrometer or time to use it at the track. The best specs will be dependent on the tire, and to some degree the car and driver.

Keep an occassional eye on the oil pressure. If it seems to keep dropping (relative to rpm) after water temperature has stabalized it may be getting hot enough during the sessions that a heavier grade will be needed to maintain viscosity. or it just may be oil return and pan control.