The holes the pivot points the adjuster bracket stud goes into is a factory positioned hole. The odds of getting 2 with the holes improperly located are pretty slim I would guess. Brake shoes are mounted with the shoes with the longest lining is always on the rear side. The backing plate that the shoes mount to have raised pads the shoes sit against. I've seen those pads have groves worn in that that won't let the shoes move freely against them. Those 6 raised pads needs to have perfectly flat surfaces. The top of the shoes also needs to sit tight against the top post. If the shoes are not fully seated, it can make the adjusting cable hold the adjusting lever in the incorrect position.

The cable also needs to sit in the recess of the cam at the center of the shoe, that is held in place by the return spring. That cam also needs to sit flat against the shoe. If it is out of position, it effects the position the lever rests in. The cable end also needs to be fully seated in the lever, and the lever has to be fully seated in the grove in the pivot stud.

If you have replaced the cable, you want to be sure the new cable is the correct length. There isn't much difference in the cable length between the 10" brakes and the 11" brakes, I have seen more then a few cables incorrectly tagged or in the wrong boxes.

I have been doing drum brakes for 45 years, both personally and professionally and I have only had to bend the adjusting lever a dozen or so times in all those years. Most of those times have been replacement parts, and many were more recent. New parts these days leave a lot to be desired. Gene