I'd get it running with points. Each change made adds another variable. Find the reason its got no power.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/produ...mp;partid=30172

over 230* on a 383, it will want at least 16* initial and maybe up to 20*.
Once that's done and off idle is OK, the rest of the curve can be corrected;
either by moving the both spring perches out, and if needed by also shortening the slots. Depends on what the factory curve looks like to begin with.

Tach - for idle with points or a simple ECU, a tach/dwell is the easiest. Easy to find at garage sales, etc.

Vacuum gage - really handy - totally worth it. Mityvac silverline also really handy and a good investment. With that you can figure out what the vac advance is doing.

Timing Tape - Black with white or yellow numbering.

Things thing s will help you. There's still a learning curve, but it takes a guy with tons of experience to do it by sight sound and smell. Even then, those guys will still use instruments to fine tune and write in their notebooks.