Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
I swapped out the Smith Bros 3/8x.088 wall (I paid for .120 wall 3/8 originally runaway) pushrods after one folded up and broke into two pieces during a dyno pull on my old bracket 526 C.I. 440 block. I had to have the lifter bushing repair after one of the pushrods gouge a groove in it when that lifter pop out at 5600 RPM and broke the tie bar on the Crower Ultra roller lifters and gouge the cam lobe puke
I bought a set of Manton 3/8x.120 wall Series three pushrods and went back to the dyno for more testing after fixing everything on that motor, I made several pulls to make sure the motor was happy with the old Smith Bros. pushrods (they did replace the two bad ones with new .088 wall for free but not the broken lifters) and would repeat on the power and torque. I then swap the pushrods with no other changes and the motor made 8 HP more at 300 RPM higher peak HP RPM than with the 3/8x.088 smith Bros. work shruggy
Getting the correct parts needed for the most power is essential to success on motors thumbs twocents
My new bracket motor has the Jesel pair shaft chrome moly rocker arms on it with Manton 7/16x.145 wall pushrods in it thumbs




What makes you think the pushrod failed first?

I ask because in 1988 I was breaking rockers so fast it would make your head spin. It would kill a PR, eat the lifter and tear down a lobe. Everyone said it was the pushrods. So I bought double taper pushrods. Now I had broken rockers and lifters. So I changes from the MP ductile rockers to Crane gold. Now I only had broken rollers.

It was the roller that was failing the entire time. Because of that, there a two cam companies I will never ever use again.

Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston