My factory TQ manual (yes they exist) says to back out the set screw holding the metering rods ALL THE WAY until it bottoms out, then go 1-1/2
turns back up to start. Make sure the secondary air door does not hang open too far, on my 440
back in '82-'83 I put an extra 1-1/2 turns on the tension spring that holds the door closed. I believe that one is 2-1/2 turns from hanging straight open. Just to experiment, I opened the secondary air well bleeds up (tiny tubes under the plates near metering rod hole)to .040 and when I hit the 4barrel, the fender hopped up about 2 inches. Air rises up the tubes and brings a quick shot of fuel instantly. I don't recommend it, just saying it worked. On my '79-360 maxivan, as the gas got worse, I moved primary jets up from .095 to .098, then to .098 with 1997 metering rods! Thats WAY more fuel than my 440 needed with headers! If you are using pump fuel, you will have to keep at it. With the engine running, you can lift up on the metering rods and see if the engine dies or speeds up for rich/lean. Find older rods from the carter "tuning kit" instead of changing to bigger jets if you can. The ones I have are so small they look like needles at the end step...I have had .137" sec. jets(!)on the 440 which were FINALLY too rich.

P.S. this may sound absurd, but my '87-360 now has the stock ROCHESTER Q-JUNK and I had to put it back on after trying 4 different TQ's....I still say "CRAPGAS". Sad and painful, but true.
The '71 is a mean mutha if you got one. Put mine on a buddy's '86 IROC-Z and almost blew it up!