Hand turn the dampener with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the dampener timing slit is at 15 BTDC (forward or backward whichever is closest if the lobes have been gooped) & if that is 6/12 then clock the dist so the rotor is pointing rearward & slightly to the DR side. if you are at 12/12 then install dist tang 180 so the rotor is pointing forward & slightly to the pass side. with the vac can on the pass side with room to be turned some then turn the dist housing slightly till the magnet lines up dead even with the closest tooth & moderately snug the dist holdown clamp. if the rotor is installed forward then start the #1 plug wire there & go on around CW. if the rotor is rearward start #6 there & continue on CW 5-7-2-1-8-4-3. this lets the wires nestle neatly with the shortest lengths possible & maintains the OE firing order & helps prevent future mistakes. good time to check rotor phasing and I would make a mark on the dampener 2&7/32" CW (35 deg) from the timing slit & have your dist man set it to that when it fires. EDIT only way I would deviate from this is if the dist I used did not point the rotor either foreward and slightly to the pass side or rearward and slightly to the dr side as some dists have drastically different top rotor to bottom tang clocking and the rotor could end up anywhere & you can start #1 or #6 wherever the rotor ends up at but the OE routing is the best if possible. Holler how it goes. Looks like you have a nice build there. I would suggest reading "breakin secrets" at
www.mototuneusa.com MORE EDIT whether you are on 6/12 or 12/12 the timing tape should be within a degree of TDC. Is it just me or does that chain have a fair amt of slop in it. I would confirm that you have the valves lashed correctly (I do each pair on base circle/takes longer but is less mistake prone at least for me) then remove the rocker assys then goop the cam then replace the rocker assys & this quick/easy R&R wont change the lash cuz your adjusters are tight
