The absolute easiest and cheapest way is the reason Mopar made the 4.15" crank, but nobody builds them this cheap and easy anymore.

Just buy a 4.15" crank and find a decent set of stock compression height 72 and later 400 Mopar flat top pistons, bore your 440 from 4.32 to 4.342" (check me there for the exact oem 400 bore size) and use the 6.76" 440 rods. keep the cam mild and low lift ~.490" net lift or worst case you'll need to eyebrow the slugs a hair. The real reason mopar selected the 4.15" stroke size was to allow this oem based combo to work.

Assuming you can acquire all of the parts used you're only buying the crank and a rebalance along with some minor bore clearancing for the rod bolts which may take an hour with a dremel and less than 1/2 that with air and carbides.

Sure the bototm end will be heavier but the $$$ you save can be better spent upgrading the heads and torque is torque from there on out.

It's almost too easy to do it real old school if all you really want is more grunt. We're spoiled these days by inexpensive billet rods, back inthe day the heavy OEM stuff was all we had and we still won our fair share of battles!!!

400 blocks with low miles and good sets of reuseable pistons are still easy to find, guys will put down the heavy ( compared to a lightweight forged "kit" ) but the 4.15 stroke/6.76 oem rod/400 oem piston bobweight will still be lighter than any OEM 440 ever built by about 200 grams. you can lose more weight for free by taking the too long pressed OEM 1.09" pins and shortening them by 1/2" inch, old school hot rod trick used by Dick Landy back in the day.