Heh, Tony. You're right on both counts. My apologies for joining the sidetrack.

So I'll add this to your suggestions to the OP:
Within your parameters lose weight where and when you get the chance. This includes unsprung weight.

Keep the car at stock height or slightly lower, this includes the rear. Lowering done right reduces both center of gravity and the roll centers. This is all no or minimal additional costs to your rebuild or replacement or worn parts. (Exception to lower than stock would be if you drive on unpaved roads - then keep stock hieghts and use a tire appropriate for that.)

Front sway bar is a must. Your own taste in steering feel will dictate the box to use. Use a slightly more agressive alignment than stock that will match your taste for a more sporty feel. Also as indicated above most modern radial tires, especially sporty ones, prefer more negative camber than the factory spec'd. More caster than the factory spec'd will help offset the body roll and help high speed stability. However there is such thing as too much caster, and also it can cause the steering wheel to snap back to center if you let go.

For brakes, make sure you get the correct shoes for the hardware. Take you're time on getting them working right. Bleed 'em. When its time to replace pads or shoes, take whatever steps you can to get linings that work well in the temperature range you'll need. The FMSI edge codes are of some help. EE minimum for someone who cares. EF or FF is even better. Pricer alternative is a place like Rochester Brake and Clutch or Porterfield.