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How do you do it without a T Bar removal tool? I've heard you don't want to score the bars. Is there a nifty trick? Mine MAY just pop out because the car hasn't had weight on it since the whole front was rebuilt.




As has been said, loosening the lca pin nut and knocking the pin free from the Kframe should unload any residual torsion from the bushing. The pickle fork works but so does any pry bar you can fit in there. You can back the nut off to the end of the pin and knock/pry the lca until the nut catches it if you need to, that's usually far enough to free the rear hex from the socket. Before I resort to that I usually just grab the stubborn bar just behind the lca socket, press on the socket with my thumb and whack on the bar with a soft mallet. It actually works a lot of the time. You may have to beat on it a while but you can feel the progress once it starts to move I've thought it would be nice if Chrysler had drilled/tapped a hole in the end of the bar so you could get ahold of it from behind with a slide hammer (or even claw hammer) and just pull on the thing. I've never tried drilling such a hole but I expect you'd need a carbide bit and perhaps a drill press. Even then, tapping might be impossible once the bar is heat treated. I took a bar to a heat treater for hardness testing and it measured at around Rockwell 45. That's over 200,000psi, closely matching a number I came up with based on vehicle weight and bar dimensions.