Is the OP's car a race only piece?

Lots of people tune stuff different ways. Some still use total timing as the method on a car with an advance curve, even though cleaning up the idle characteristics can help the car leave on footbrake. Lots of ways to skin the cat.

My deal with a PV is to NOT have an extremely low numbered PV, 2.5, just in case the engine starts pulling a vacuum at high rpm/WOT conditions. That's where the select at idle using 1/2 vacuum guys can get killed. The time difference between a 5.5 and an 8.5 opening when you drop the hammer is so small it's not anything to worry about, manifold vacuum drops to nothing. Watch a gauge how fast it passes through the range when it's matted.

I've got some holleys that the arm on the throttle shaft has become loose. That actuates the pump cam slightly before the plates actually open. Make sure the gold arm isn't loose on the shaft.

Try disconnecting the secondaries and dial in the primary pump shot. Hook secondary up and see how it goes and tune that side. Trying to do both at the same time can be frustrating.

As far as the OP goes. Put an AF gauge in it to see what's occurring. Great tool to diagnose issues.