Quote:

If its clicking the relay is working. I'd check the cables from the relay to starter, and like said if he can jump across the starter lugs and see if it spins over. My bets are theres a bad spot in the starter.




Nonsense. Any relay or solenoid can "click" (pull in) and have burned or dirty contacts and not activate the load

Since the relay seems to be working, it's either the wiring between the relay and the starter, or the starter itself, or in rare possibilities, I've seen the main battery cable or the smaller solenoid wire "break" inside the eyelets right near the flex point at the starter.

Since relays don't cost much, You might gamble on replacing that, and wait. Teach him how to jumper across the RELAY. (Short the only two exposed terminals with anything, including a coin. You may get a small inductive jolt from the "coil effect" of the solenoid.

If it won't crank when jumpering the relay, you should be able (on a 6) to do the same thing at the starter.

IF IT CRANKS when jumpered at the starter but NOT at the relay, then something is wrong with the small wire (eyelets/wire connection)

If it won't crank at the starter, it's either the starter, or an iffy main cable.

NOTE:

You can't assume that because the solenoid doesn't pull in, that it's automatically the solenoid. Both (older at least) GM and Mopar solenoids have two windings, a "pull in" and a lighter "hold in" winding.

The pull in winding is in SERIES through the starter. What this causes is, when the sol. gets voltage from the relay, this heavy pull in winding slams the solenoid in. AS SOON as the main solenoid contacts close, that current through the "pull in" winding is stopped, and the solenoid is held in by the lighter winding which is grounded.

IF THE STARTER is bad (won't draw current, IE bad brushes) the pull in winding won't slam in, and you get only a small click from the relay