Thanks for replying again.

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I don't really go for all the hand wringing about "not having a hot cable," but that's OK

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Yeah, I guess it mostly just sounds like a good idea but I really did not like it under the car myself. There are plenty of places for it to chafe inside though. The most obvious place is where it comes out from under the back seat and into the wiring trough. I put a little padding on the end of the thin metal trough cover and put the cable inside a plastic conduit, should be good. Indeed, adding the solenoid in the trunk adds complexity. That's how I did it though so no turning back.

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I don't believe in running a DEDICATED (unswitched) alternator line back, unless it's on the cold side of the switch. That is, if you kill the switch, and it leaves the alternator "hot" I don't believe this meets the intent/ spirit of the rules

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I agree to an extent but the rules make it difficult to accomplish this in few other ways. If you could kill the car using the negative side, that would be easier. I think this is why some suggest using the CD solenoid. I'm also trying to figure out if I can use a relay on the switched 12V wire to do the same thing since the Denso needs a power source to work.

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The whole deal comes down to this: The alternator will keep the ignition hot, unless you kill the ignition. Since you are using an MSD, this becomes easy.

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Wouldn't the idea of running the (spliced) main feed wires for the dash and accessories (red + black) back to the small stud on the switch do that? If you kill that main feed you kill the ignition switch, no? This would in effect be running the ignition switch directly to the disconnect switch since its tied into that circuit.

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As I said, run two number 14's from front to rear, hooked to the small terminals of your switch.
Disconnect your ignition run and ballast wire at the jumper FROM the "small red" MSD power wire. This should result in NO ignition.
Now hook the small red to one of your no14's and hook the ignition junction of your "run" and ballast splice to the remaining one.

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See above reply about running main feed to disconnect switch.

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This gets back to the old wives tale of "testing alternators" where people go around pulling off a battery clamp and "if the engine runs, the alternator is good." Same deal here---the disconnect must break either the alternator circuit or the ignition circuit.

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I guess I am just looking for confirmation that the way I have it wired now - main feed back to small stud, alternator output to B+ side will work. My only other concern is back feeding the alternator output through the switch and back to the battery. I have a 2/0 cable and little in the way of accessories right now so i think it should be fine.

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Since those small terminals are too small to carry alternator output, and since there is no field circuit on a "one wire" AND since you handily have an MSD with the "small red" enabling wire, this just became very easy.

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I will definitely consider this method, sounds reasonable. Thanks again.