Thanks for bringing this back up.

I couldn't think about it anymore so I went out and started wiring it up.

Ford solenoid mounted to battery box. 2/0 cable runs from B+ post to solenoid lug. 2nd 2/0 cable with ring terminals runs from the same stud on the solenoid to the 1/2 stud on the cold side of the disconnect switch. Then, a 1/0 cable runs from the output side of the solenoid to the B+ stud on the starter.

The alternator output wire (8ga.) runs from the B+ stud to the terminal connector on the firewall, then directly back to the B+ side of the disconnect switch. There is a 12 ga. fusible link at the end of that wire on the 1/2" stud.
I made a jumper wire for the cold side of the disconnect switch out of 8 ga.

Again, the ammeter was bypassed and the 'main feed' wires have been spliced together. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to run that back to the small stud on the cold side of the disconnect.

The MSD B+ goes to the firewall connector but I suppose I could also run it back to the disconnect switch. The voltage sense wire for the alt. goes to the firewall connector. The plan right now is to run a wire from an empty spade connector in the fuse box to the alt. for switched 12v. (again, I have a bare minimum of accessories to power) I took the lamp wire out of the alternator pigtail connector.

Another thing I'm a little unclear about is the yellow ignition feed to the starter relay. I think I may have to run that back to one of the smaller terminals on the Ford solenoid as opposed to the OE starter relay. As of now, that would be the only wire going to the OE starter relay.

Also, not sure if I can permanently jump the mini starter or if I have to still use the starter relay. The Mad guy said I would burn up my starter if I did that since its a permanent magnet type. I could wrong on that.

That's where I'm at. Hope that makes sense to those of you who replied. I know I am making it sound more complicated than it should be.